Is Suntory All-Free a Non-Alcoholic Substitute for Japanese Lager?

As a lover of and author on brewing history, I am fascinated by so-called “near beer,” especially its role in Prohibition. So strict was Prohibition-era regulation, that even though these near beers could be marketed widely, they couldn’t be labeled as “beer.” As a result, anyone who wasn’t able to covertly brew their own or get some from a home-brewing buddy between 1920 and 1933 might have to drink what was called “cereal beverage.” Doesn’t sound too appetizing to me.

Fast forward to today and there are even more of them, from Erdinger to Kaliber to your everyday O’Doul’s and these modern “near beers” often have a little bit of alcohol in them. But there are also some true 0.0% alcohol beer-esque beverages hitting the market, one of them being Japanese brewery Suntory’s All-Free, which not only is alcohol-free but also calorie-free. The “beer,” which is billed as “sparkling malt and hop beverage” on its packaging, is made with two-row barley malt, with aromatic hops for bouquet and bitterness.

It was a Monday afternoon, I was thirsty, so I thought, “Why not? Let’s pop a can open.” Poured into a basic pint glass, the beverage is clean and crisp, light, with off-white head and noticeably thin in body – in other words, it passed the eye test, looking and pouring like a typical Japanese rice beer, the kind I often pair with my sushi. Think Kirin Ichiban or Asahi.

The aroma is much the same, although I picked up on more sweetness than I would normally expect from a typical Japanese lager, along with an almost buttery note that I would normally expect from a Japanese lager. A bit different, yes, but still, so far, so good in terms of All-Free potentially being a worthy and much more healthful replacement for a lager.

The flavor, however, is not quite what I had been hopeful for – if unconfident in actually finding – in All-Free.

Body-wise? Yes, it’s right there, although it possesses an odd astringency that I can’t recall ever experiencing in a beer. The flavor, however, is difficult to describe. It’s definitely beer-like, perhaps drifting somewhere between a Kolsch and a Berliner Weisse, although it may have struck me that way given those are traditionally beer styles with lower alcohol levels. My palate also got a flavor note that hits the back of the palate on the way down that leaves a bit of a metallic aftertaste, which builds slowly.

Halfway through the beer, I was intrigued if not sold. I didn’t have any sushi on hand, but I do always keep a local fermented craft soy sauce in the cupboard, so I dabbed a few drops and let it coat my tongue. I can say the All-Free played reasonably well with the robust, salty flavor, although I can’t say it was a great compliment. Call it a push.

Bottom line, am I going to switch over and start drinking near beer like this? Nah. But for the target audience, this actually may resonate on some level. I love a cold, crisp beer when I’m eating any raw seafood, be it sushi or raw oysters – it just fits, staying out of the way of the flavors you’re there for in the first place while also whetting the whistle and adding a lightly sweet element. Despite that aftertaste, I think All-Free could accomplish that for the non-drinker, the designated driver, or just someone who’s looking to cut back. New Year’s resolution, anyone?

Suntory All-Free is available in 350ml cans (SRP $2.49) and I four- and six-packs (retail prices may vary).

Editor’s note: Suntory All-Free won a gold medal in the 2017 NY International Beer Competition