81 Days in Walla Walla: Fires, A Pandemic, and Miles Away from Home

A New York City Somm’s Journey Through the 2020 Harvest

Smoky skies. Photo credits to Andrew McFetridge

Masked-up punch-downs, small-town life, and commuting through smoke were not part of my initial 2020 vision. However, each of these ingredients made up the interesting stew that was my first harvest, and getting comfortable with being uncomfortable was one of the many lessons. 

Walla Walla. Photo credits to Andrew McFetridge

Located in southeastern Washington State, Walla Walla is a town of roughly 60,000 people with viticulture being one of the main industries. Here, a glass of wine is served side-by-side with classic American charm. In fact, in 2011 it was named “Friendliest Small Town in America” by Rand McNally. Also, in 2020 Walla Walla Valley was recognized as the “Best Wine Region” by USA Today Readers’ Choice. Grosgrain Vineyards’ winemaker Matt Austin and his wife Kelly moved to Walla Walla after living in Los Angeles and Seattle and fell in love with it immediately.  “Walla Walla is pretty isolated from any major cities, which has allowed it to maintain an unspoiled and laid back character that is refreshing and hard to find these days,” says Austin.  

Grosgrain is known for approachable wines that use grapes such as the Italian darlings aglianico and nebbiolo, which are rare in the valley. 

Italian immigrants settled the valley in the mid-19th century and began grape growing on its distinctive loess and basalt soils. The Walla Walla Valley American Viticultural Area was established in 1984 and today has over 100 wineries that each add their own allure to the region. Cabernet sauvignon is king here with chardonnay, malbec, and merlot also holding court. Tempranillo and grenache also sprout up in the semi-arid region, which receives only 20 inches on average of rain per year.

Rerouted

In New York (before my journey out west came about) my plate was full yet I was hungry. While busy working and studying full-time, there was still one experience I craved: to make wine. A harvest job at Vina Vik Winery in Chile was scheduled for April, but the COVID-19 pandemic sunk its fangs into the world and rerouted my final destination to my couch. At least there was wine to drink.  After months of contemplating life, redecorating, and baking (yes, I tried sourdough, too) I desperately needed to escape New York City and be inspired again. An opportunity in Walla Walla as a harvest intern arose and since I had nothing else to do (except bake for Instagram) I quickly accepted. 

Jared and Kristina Burns Revelry

Jared Burns, winemaker, and owner at Revelry Vintners began his winery in 2005 with the goal to showcase that Walla Walla could compete on the world stage of fine wine.  At Revelry, wines are crafted with precision and are sourced from iconic vineyards including Dionysius Vineyard, which has some of the oldest vines in Washington State.  “...Recently our AERIALS Series ‘D11’ Cabernet Sauvignon set a record at auction with the highest price ever paid for a Washington State wine when a case sold for $105,000.  It’s a record that rivals any record set prior in the US. That is a testament to everyone making wine here in our state.  As much as we work to put our name near the top of the list, we equally so are still doing everything we are able to bring the attention to our region that it very much deserves,” Burns says.  The pressure was on. I wasn’t 100% sure if I’d be successful at harvest, live miles away from home (2,724 to be exact), but I committed to the full 10 weeks.

Fires and Smoke

Fast-forward to my September arrival in Walla Walla, and after finding a bike capable of the daily 12-mile round trip to work along with my negative COVID test, I was ready. But in true 2020 fashion, the next week brought the possibility that Walla Walla’s harvest could go up in flames, which would send me back to New York. The year and I were no longer in a friendly competition, it had its game face on.

Matt and Kelly Austin Grosgrain

The wildfires and smoke engulfing California and Oregon’s wine regions soon pounced into Washington State and dangerously close to Walla Walla. By mid-September, fire and smoke crawled into every nook and cranny in Eastern Washington upending farming communities, livelihoods, and claiming lives. Thoughts quickly turned to vineyard health and had winemakers readjusting their techniques and doing some extensive testing. “The smoke did impact my decision making this year and I was inclined to press our red grapes earlier and to keep press wine separate, which I don't always do,” says Austin. “I'm really happy with the wines at this early stage and it will be a fascinating vintage to follow.”

Thankfully, Walla Walla was only briefly blanketed by smoke and harvest was able to continue. However, some negative effects down the road are still possible. “The long term impacts are not yet totally known.  We did a pretty exhaustive analysis of each site and variety that we work with prior to harvest, both with sensory and scientific means.  We felt pretty confident after all was said and done that our sites were likely not impacted.  Now that our wines are nearly malolactic fermentation complete we will be submitting another round of samples to the lab for analysis.  That should be pretty interesting data to compare with what we already have.  It certainly was a wild time here during that smoke event.  It was totally uncharted waters, “ Burns said.

It’s Go Time

Revelry Harvest

After the smoke cleared we prepared for the arrival of fruit. Harvest is not glamorous, as I was warned. But, I adapted quickly to my new role as a sommelier turned winemaking student. My newly acquired resume skills included rolling and unrolling hoses, identifying friendly critters from the unfriendly ones, and running on adrenaline while constantly sunburned. The cleaning of Macro bins (and learning the power washer) was an art that I mastered, eventually. The city boy was trying. 

Chardonnay grapes. Photo credits to Andrew McFetridge

The arrival of the first fruit was thrilling. It was time to make wine here and now. Chardonnay gyrated down the vibrating sorting table where focus, timeliness, and playing nice with bees were essential. Only the pristine bunches were destined to become wine and the unsavory clusters had to be pulled and discarded.  The grapes were the star of the show and didn’t let us forget. At the start, unexpected days off were common but October saw us switching into full throttle. Syrah, cabernet and some voluptuous grenache each had their turn enchanting us as they made their debut. Their intoxicating charm soon made me forget the aching in my limbs. 

Early mornings melted into long nights. Exhaustion and lingering doubt fueled an urge to give up. Opening high-end bottles and pairing courses were distant memories. I missed New York and wondered how out-of-my-mind my new west coast friends thought I might be. But, daily homemade dinners (The Burns Family also cooks) and refreshing Coors Lights made me more at ease. I can do this. Also, a few beers, laughs, and a full stomach could amplify anyone’s confidence.  

Punch down. Photo credits to Andrew McFetridge

The last fruit eventually arrived and the end was near. The cellar was full of excitement and anticipation. Chatty ferments greeted me each morning. The abrasive sounds of pump-overs made sure we were all still awake. The smells of freshly steamed French oak decorated the air as the sun left us. Harvest was dwindling down and soon my last day was here. I did it. I was part of the 2020 vintage. 

On my miles-long journey to and from the winery each day, many thoughts arose that defined my experience. Small towns rejuvenate. Defeat is only inevitable if you let it be. Comfort zones are just that -  comfortable. Cleaning with a power washer is very therapeutic. There’s a lot of hard work (and patience) that’s behind making an excellent bottle of wine. And life has a funny way of giving you what you need.  

Wines to try from Walla Walla

Revelry Vintners Connor Lee Chardonnay 2019- ($42)

Old vine chardonnay and new world elegance combine to make all 750 milliliters of this wine elegant and electric. Stone fruit aromas sing in harmony with roundness from lees contact. Great for sunny days and soft cheeses.

Spring Valley Vineyards Frederick  Red Blend - ($60)

Spring Valley keeps it all in the family with their wines. Each wine is named after a member of the Corkrum family, who settled in Walla Walla in the 1800s. Frederick , named after one of the Corkrum sons, is a blend of cabernet sauvignon, syrah, and malbec finished off with a kiss of French oak. 

Elephant Seven River Rock Vineyard Syrah 2018 - ($42)

This meaty syrah comes from just over the Oregon border in The Rocks of Milton-Freewater AVA, a sub-region of the larger Walla Walla Valley AVA. The area is known for its ancient basalt soils that give the grapes a distinct minerality. 

Grosgrain French Creek Grenache 2019 - ($36)

Light, fun, and fresh is the name of the game here. Soft tannin, strawberries, and a hint of garrigue make this a perfect warm-weather red. 

Gramercy Cellars Viognier - 2019 ($28)

This vivacious viognier stems from the larger Columbia Valley AVA but made into a delicious representation of the often looked over grape right off Walla Walla’s downtown. 

 Mark Ryan Lonely Heart Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 - ($95)

Mark Ryan’s wines are a must-have. There’s no concern to be lonely with this burly bottle of Red Mountain cabernet, especially when enjoyed in their tasting room right smack dab in downtown Walla Walla.