Bushmills’ Oldest Whiskeys Are Worthy of Dear Old Dad

Editor’s note: Father’s Day is coming up and either of these bottles or both would be a fine way to honor dad either as a gift or open a bottle and toast to him.

Bushmills Distillery

Given that Bushmills isn’t just the oldest Irish distillery still operating but the oldest licensed distillery anywhere in the world, dating back to 1608 (the building itself dates to 1784), it makes sense that they’d have some pretty old whiskey aging in their vaults. It’s almost surprising, in fact, to find out that they’ve never released a bottling aged even 30 years until this year. Of course, decades-long aging was never a huge consideration for most of Bushmills’ long and checkered history, and when extra-aged spirits did become popular in the last few decades, the entire Irish whiskey category was on the rocks. So now that the stars have aligned — Irish whiskey and what industry bean-counters and publicists like to call “super-premium” whiskeys are both booming — they’re making up for lost time by adding both a 25 and a 30 year old single malt to their permanent range. Which would seem to mean they’ve got plenty of them in the pipeline.

Bushmills whiskeys

It should go without saying, but I’ll say it anyway — older doesn’t necessarily mean better. For every brilliant superannuated whiskey that’s made it to the bottle, there are plenty that fall flat, bottled a little (or a lot) past their prime, after the oak in which they’re aged dominates other, more subtle flavors, leading to a finished product that’s one-dimensional at best, and at worst makes you want to pluck splinters out of your tongue. Fortunately, these two whiskeys escaped such a fate — they’re still robust, complex, and delicious, each in its distinct way.

Bushmills 25 year

Bushmills 25 Year Old Single Malt

Bushmills 25 Year Old has been aged in ex-bourbon barrels and sherry butts for six years, with most of its maturation (21 years’ worth) taking place in first-fill ruby port pipes. Which would make it a 27 year old, not a 25… but math aside, it’s a terrific whiskey. The port influence comes through right away on the nose, with rich notes of dark fruit and chocolate. On the palate, both flavors predominate, along with hints of molasses and creamy vanilla. The finish is gentle, with just a touch of oak, surprising given its age. The port informs the flavor profile without dominating it completely — this is a sublime, elegant dram, bottled at 46% ABV with no chill filtering.

Bushmills 30 year

Bushmills 30 Year Old Single Malt

Bushmills 30 Year Old also began its journey in ex-bourbon barrels and sherry butts way back in 1992 — it remained there for 14 years before being finished in first-fill Pedro Ximenez sherry casks for another 16 years (the math works out on this one!). Like the 25, it’s non-chill filtered and bottled at 46% ABV. The PX sherry imparts warm, rich aromas of dried fruit, big notes of cherry and candied orange on the palate, and a lingering, slightly leathery finish. It’s sweet but not cloying, gentle but not flaccid, a damn near perfectly executed whiskey.

Either of these whiskeys would make a fine Father’s Day gift for the dad in your life. The both of them together might very well propel you to favorite child status, whether or not you’re the biological offspring of said dad. So what’s stopping you? Besides the price, that is. Old whiskey is not cheap no matter who’s making it, and when it’s a distillery with the pedigree of Bushmills… well, it’s going to cost you. A bottle of the 25 Year Old goes for $900 (suggested retail price) and the 30 sells for $2,200 (ditto). But really, is there a better way of saying, “Thanks for the trust fund, Dad?” Or, “Thanks for giving me a job in your hedge fund?” Or, “I won the lottery and I want you to help me enjoy it?” I think not.