How Leftover Yuzu in Australia Led to Cult Favorite Unico Vermouths
Unico Yuzu Vermouth
Whether you’ve stirred a Negroni or shaken a martini, there might be one ingredient you overlooked but should pay close attention to next time. We are talking about vermouth, the fortified wine invented in the 1780s in Turin, Italy. It’s a key ingredient in many popular mixed drinks, for its ability to add body and complexity to cocktails. You can find it in sweet or dry, and a gamut of other types such as amber or rosé. However, one Australian winemaker is pushing the traditional vermouth boundaries.
Unico Zelo
Brendan and Laura Carter photo credit Meaghan Coles
Unico Zelo is a creative winemaking venture based in Adelaide Hills, South Australia, helmed by husband and wife duo Brendan and Laura Carter. They make everything from wine to gin. In his words, the aim is to create Italian-inspired, textural, and site-expressive wines,” but that doesn’t stop Brendan from venturing off where the wind takes him, especially his interest in native Australian ingredients and sustainable practices. Every product to come out of the distillery and winery reflects its local origins and tastes uniquely Australian. Read more about the wineries of Adelaide Hills.
“The only reason we ever do anything in this business is that there is an agricultural need,” says Brendan. “We were constantly asked by customers to make vermouth, but we purposely didn’t make one, simply because our friends were making vermouth and we wanted to support them at the time.”
Unico Zelo distillery photo credit Lochie Simmons
Although, in the agriculture business, not everything is perfect. Brendan explains the year he had a bumper crop, and instead of devaluing the wine, he decided to add to it, using what he had on hand. “We had just released our distillery-only Applewood Navy, which uses yuzu extract that we make. In the end, we realised we had made more than we needed, so we decided to make it into vermouth.”
Using Yuzu
Yuzu fruit
At the time, yuzu wasn’t as popular as it is today. In the last two years, yuzu has become something of a pop star in ingredients. Restaurants around the country are slapping it in desserts and sauces, while bars are overrun with yuzu syrups and yuzu-based cocktails. According to Brendan, the concept of citrus in vermouth is still quite uncouth, as traditional vermouths are built around woody, herbaceous, and other savoury elements, as opposed to the bright, fresh, tart profile of Unico Yuzu Vermouth.
He consciously uses leftovers from the winery and distillery, which is why every release is different. “One year, we used Nebbiolo, and another, we had leftover merlot, so we used that up,” he says. “I personally prefer the profile of merlot for this sweet vermouth. It’s more rich and dense, rather than the lean style of Nebbiolo that we grow.”
Brendan explains the base wine is fortified with a wormwood-driven aromatised spirit. Then, much like in gin making, the winemaker is free to play once juniper is added. “This is where the yuzu is added and becomes the identity of the vermouth,” he says. “It’s easy to get wrong, but when you get it right, it’s awesome.”
More Vermouths
Unico Zelo vermouths
Since releasing Unico Yuzu, Brendan has expanded the vermouth range to include Unico Pomelo dry vermouth, made from sauvignon blanc and Unico Rosa, made from a combination of pinot gris and grenache, blended with Davidson Plum for some zip and grip. “I thought it was the growing popularity of yuzu, but now I believe consumer confidence and education make vermouth so appealing to drinkers today. People are experimenting at home, and if they already had a fascination with wine and craft spirits, then the natural next step is vermouth.”