From Behind the Bar with Gavin Humes, Scratch Restaurants Group

Gavin Humes photo courtesy of Scratch Restaurants Group

Gavin Humes is the Director of Operations and Sake Sommelier for Scratch Restaurant Group  which includes Sushi by Scratch Restaurants, a Michelin-starred restaurant with  locations in Los Angeles, Chicago, Seattle, Austin, and Miami. Humes was a chef and in addition to creating cocktails and tending bar, he spent the last several years focused on pairing food and wine and studied at the Sake School of America in 2020 to become a certified sake sommelier, earning the title of International Kikisake-shi. 

How would you describe your bar?

Our bar at Sushi by Scratch Restaurants is pretty unique in that we only use Japanese products for our cocktails. That means we use a lot of Japanese whisky, gin, and vodka, and we don't carry tequila. Since the guests sit right up at the counter and we only seat 10 at a time, it's a very intimate setting where guests can describe what they're looking for, and we can craft the perfect drink. Our "set" drinks that can be ordered a la carte are pretty minimal (like a Japanese take on a Bee's Knees), because we want to inspire that conversation, whether it leads to them choosing a drink pairing or us crafting a bespoke cocktail to their liking.

What cocktail have you added to the menu recently?

The Red Seal of Shimoda. The name of the cocktail comes from the Japanese port city of Shimoda, which was the first port opened to trade with the West back in 1854. That's why we use port (get it?) in the drink, and why it's a blend of flavors from the east and west. The green rim is the matcha green tea salt, which is made in-house and also used on some of the pieces of nigiri.

Red Seal of Shimoda

1 oz pomegranate juice

1/4 oz Port

1/4 oz lemon

1/2 oz honey 

1 1/2 Toki Suntory Whisky

Shake. Garnish with matcha green tea salt on rim of cocktail glass using lemon juice, Serve in a Nick & Nora glass.

How do you stay up to date with current drink trends?

I read a lot. I also like to use my travel opportunities to get out and see what other people are doing. It's always fun to see a new technique, or style and see if there's some inspiration that can be drawn from that.

Which new (or new to you) spirits brand(s) have you been using lately and why?

We've been working a lot lately with the Shibui line of Japanese whisky. It's a great product, and regardless of the age statement (which can get up to 30 years), it's just quality whisky. We recently did a pairing dinner with them, and I'm really into the complexity and integrity in the product.

Who’s your favorite bartender or mentor and why?

It's hard to pick a favorite bartender, and I'm not sure I have a "mentor" per se, just because of the way I came up in the industry. That said, I love the cocktail scene in New Orleans. I've spent many nights at Chris McMillian's bar(s), and have the ultimate respect for what he's done (and continues to do).

What is your philosophy about pairing drinks and food?

They're two sides of the same coin. The drink should complement the food, and the food should complement the drinks. I usually go one of two ways: 1). The beverage should echo the flavors in the dish, or 2), The beverage should contrast/cut through the flavors in the dish.

How does your background as a chef inform your bartending?

I think part of it comes from the fact that I'm less dogmatic about how something "should" be in regards to beverages. For me, the ingredients in a drink are no different than the ingredients in a dish, and the goal should always be to create a delicious, balanced, and enjoyable drink.

What are some of your favorite ways to use sake in cocktails?

It really depends on the sake. Some have a light, fruity quality that lends themselves beautifully to providing a fresh, clean, slightly floral, elegant sipper. Others are more aggressive, umami driven, and really play better at providing some of what you might expect from a darker or even aged spirit like a whisky or an anejo tequila - more of a "spirit forward" style of drink.

What is the best way to learn about sake?

Drink it. Seriously, go to a place with a great selection, and try different classifications and styles of sake. It's too easy to oversimplify sake into "hot" or "cold," but there's a whole world of information out there. How does the water used impact the flavor and texture? The varietal of rice? The polish rate? There's just so much to learn, the best way is to start drinking it and asking questions.

Any techniques that you’ve been experimenting with?

I tend to err on the more "classic" sense, so there aren't a ton of out there techniques that I use. We're currently experimenting on making some of our own bitters, which is unique, but not really a "technique" in that sense.

What jigger do you use and why?

We use the Japanese style jigger from Cocktail Kingdom at our Sushi restaurants.

What advice would you have for your younger self or a bartender starting out today?

Have fun and ask questions. The only way to get better is to ask questions and be inquisitive. If you're not afraid to try something, and you're willing to ask about something, you'll end up just fine.