To Mix Now: Lambrusco Cocktails
Delicious red sparklers from Italy makes great spritzes too
I’m in the camp that a glass of bubbly is meant to be enjoyed all year round, for any occasion, not just ones that are supposed to be “celebratory.” After all, how can we get through such mundane necessities as preparing taxes and work day commutes if we can’t enjoy the instant rewards that result in the popping of a cork?
But say “sparkling wine” and most people gravitate towards Champagne, or maybe a good cava, prosecco, cremant or some other white sparkler. But a red one, particularly a good Lambrusco, can be every bit as satisfying and feel as exciting and elegant to sip as its white grape counterparts. Sure, they join the ranks of zinfandel and cheap Chianti and most pre-1990s rosés available in the states of getting a deservedly bad rap. But like those other wines, that’s because the best stuff had been kept close to home. Excellent Lambruscos, made primarily from grapes of the same name, are produced around Emilia-Romagna in Italy and exist in styles that range from off-dry (semi-secco), to bone dry (secco), and rosato versions with less red grape skin contact (as well as a range of DOC and DOCG appellations), and more of them are available around the world these days, which means far better options. There was even a whole section of the recent Vinexpo NYC devoted to showcasing them in all their various glories. One of my favorite discoveries in wine school in the early 2000s was the perfect pairing of a well-structured Lambrusco that happened to be open for research with the pizzas ordered for the class—the bubbles cut through the saltiness of the cheese, and the acidity perfectly matched the tomato sauce. That revelation made me a lifelong fan, with repeated successes.
I am also a fan of Lambrusco cocktails. When most of us think of spritzes—again they are often associated with white or rosé combinations—but the tannins and floral aromatics of Lambrusco can add extra dimension to the sipping experience. Plus, they make the perfect transitional weather cocktail when it’s not quite warm yet, but something refreshing and satisfying is in order.
Here are some recipes using full-on red Lambruscos that showcase the wine’s versatility in simple spritzes, more complex and bitter concoctions, and even tropical, tiki-esque variations. As with any good drink (or any good cooking recipe), don’t use a wine that you wouldn’t want to sip on its own. Every Lambrusco in these recipes is fantastic freshly corked by the glass as a standalone sipper, plus they’re priced right for everyday celebrations.
Peace Offering
By Josh Powell, co-owner The Natural Philosopher, London, U.K.
.75 oz Olmeca Altos Blanco Tequila
.75 oz Cocchi Torino vermouth
.5 oz fresh pink grapefruit juice
.25 oz agave syrup
Lambrusco Cleto Chiarli Lambrusci di Sorbara (slightly earthy with approachable tannic structure, $16) to top
special vessel (optional): single serve glass bottle with frozen water at the bottom (or use highball glass)
Pour first 4 ingredients into the tall glass of choice and stir to dissolve the agave syrup. Top midway with Lambrusco and carefully add ice to the top. Garnish with a grapefruit twist. If using the bottle, Powell says, “As the cocktail is drank through the straw, it remains cold and has little dilution.”
Reggiano-Americano
Samuele Campanini, Jigger Spiriti e Cucina, Reggiano Nell Emilia, Italy
This earthy refresher, based on a Negroni sbagliato, hails from a cocktail bar in the town surrounding the heart of Lambrusco country.
1 oz red vermouth
1 oz Campari
2 dashes wood bitter
1.25 oz Medici Ermete Concerto Lambrusco Reggiano DOC (a fine balance between earth, spice, plush fruit and subtle florals produced in the heart of Lambrusco country outside of Roma, $24)
Garnish: orange twist
Build all ingredients in a rocks glass. Garnish.
The Judson
From Jigger Spiriti e Cucina
Here, Lambrusco takes a trip to the tropics!
2 oz Cruzan Aged Dark Rum
.75 oz lime
.5 oz cane sugar
large pinch of mint
Medici Ermete Solo Reggiano Rosso DOC (a 51% ancellota and 49% Lambrusco Salamino blend that is fruitier, but still dry and refreshing, $18)
Muddle the mint and lime juice in a mixing tin, then add the cane sugar and rum. Fill a highball glass with crushed ice. Swizzle. Top with more ice. Float Lambrusco over the top and garnish with mint sprig.
APÉRUSCO
By ms. franky marshall, Modern Bartender/Educator, New York City
.75 oz freshly squeezed pink grapefruit juice
.5 oz Gran Classico Bitter
1 oz Red Pineau des Charentes
1 oz dry Lambrusco to top (such as Lambrusco "La Grasparossa," Zanasi 2018, a vintage style with plush berry flavors and woodsy balsamic notes, $14)
garnish: dehydrated strawberry
Add all ingredients except Lambrusco to ice-filled mixing tin. Shake for a few seconds until chilled. Fine strain into coupe glass. Top with Lambrusco. Gently stir once more to integrate. Garnish.
Mercury In Retrograde
Courtesy of Subject, New York City
10 dashes Bitter Truth Chocolate Bitters
.5 oz demerara rich syrup (2:1)
1 oz amaro Braulio
3 oz dry Lambrusco (such as Cleto Chiarli Pruno Nero Grasparossa di Castelvetro DOC, a dark, full-bodied style, $18)
splash of seltzer
garnish: rosemary sprig
To make this cocktail that Subject co-owner Brian Grummert says tastes like “fancy, dry Cherry Coke”, stir all ingredients except seltzer briefly in a cocktail tin without ice so as not to over-dilute. Pour over rocks in a 12 oz highball or double rocks. Splash with seltzer. Garnish.
Goodbye Stranger
(named for the Supertramp song)
By Paula Lukas, bartender, New York City
.75 oz Rosemary infused Giffard Crème de Framboise
3 dashes of Crude Bitters " Big Bear" Coffee and Cocoa Bitters
4 oz Lambrusco Otello (an instant refresher bursting with cherries and allspice notes, $20)
1/2 tsp mix of Lejay Poivre de Cassis (pepper of crème de cassis) and fine salt for rimming glass (optional)
garnish: rosemary sprig
Combine Mr. Black, framboise and bitters in a shaker tin with ice. Shake and strain into a wine or tulip glass, already rimmed if doing so. Top with Lambrusco and garnish with rosemary sprig.
Scotch Lambrusco Mule
Brynn Smith, Allbright, Los Angeles, CA
.75 oz lemon juice
.4 oz honey syrup
.4 oz ginger syrup
1.5 oz Aberfeldy 12 Yr Single Malt Scotch
2 to 2.5 oz to top dry Lambrusco (such as Venturini Baldini Marchese Manodori, a plummy style with violet and tobacco notes, $18)
garnish: mint sprig with sprinkled with powdered sugar
Add all ingredients to a mixing tin and shake with ice until well chilled. Strain into a julep glass over crushed ice. Top with Lambrusco. Garnish.