The (Other) Great American Wine States
Early Mountain Vineyards
Quality wines that are not from CA, OR, WA, or NY
You may be surprised (or not) to learn that all 50 states in the USA produce wine. The vine and its numerous species sprout everywhere from the tippy top of Michigan (where some beautiful rieslings are made, by the way), The Appalachian Trail, and of course the Pacific Northwest—which does include Idaho, don’t forget. In fact, the Snake River Valley AVA is shared between Idaho and Oregon where some enticing Rhône-style reds are produced.
European Vitis vinifera and the native North American vines Vitis labrusca, Vitis rotundifolia, and Vitis aestivalis each thrive in many corners (some more than others) of the US of A and produce wines that run the gamut from chuggable to seductive. Muscadine down South? Sure. Malbec from Idaho? Yep. Alicante Bouschet from Texas? You betcha. In fact, the Texas wine industry generates about $13 billion to the state’s economy and close to $1 billion to the federal economy, according to the Texas Wine & Grape Grower’s Association 2017 annual report. The Lonestar State also rounded out the top 5 wine-producing states in 2018 with over four million gallons produced from 352 wineries!
courtesy RDV Vineyards
Wines made from European-American hybrid grapes like seyval blanc, marquette, and le crescent from New England are also making a splash. Brian Smith of Oyster River Winegrowers in Warren, Maine, crafts natural wine styles from these hybrids—including everything from traditional method sparkling to fruity carbonic reds. The resulting wines are rousing interest among wine lovers. Try the Carbonic Nation rouge or the funky and spunky pét-nat Morphos.
Some wineries go another route, like Old York Cellars in New Jersey (Bronze Medal at the 2019 NY International Wine Competition, Best Fruit Wine) and produce wines from fruits like peaches and blackberries—perfect for a summer spritz! Wineries in Hawaii, like Maui wine, even make sparkling pineapple wine!
That aside, quality grape juice is coming from a handful of states that may not quite be at the production level (yet) or the attention-grabbing caliber of California, Oregon, Washington, or New York, but are planting a valiant effort. These states, like Virginia, Missouri and even New Mexico, can surprisingly boast longer histories and firsts among North American wine. After all, it took a Texas plant-nerd like Thomas Munson got to the root of the phylloxera epidemic of the 1800s, which made him a significant player in saving European vineyards from the pest. Yeehaw!
Drink in some of the fun facts below and find a new favorite from these “other” states causing a stir.
Virginia
Virginia is for lovers—wine lovers. Virginia is home to nearly 300 wineries and produced just over two million gallons of juice in 2018, according to the National Association of American Wineries. Winemaking in the commonwealth of Virginia goes back to the 17th century when European settlers planted the vine near Jamestown. However, the inexperienced settlers failed consistently to produce quality wine. Years later, after traveling through Europe and becoming an American ambassador to France, President Thomas Jefferson even had a go at producing the stuff at his Monticello estate. However, his ambitious plans never came to fruition due to vine disease and rot. As an homage, his original plan was given a second chance in the 1980s at the estate, and it still produces wine today. After years of trial and error, Virginia wine is finally getting the recognition it deserves with plantings of Bordeaux varietals, petit manseng, viognier, and its born-and-bred grape Norton, which happens to be the official grape of Missouri.
courtesy Montelle
Try these:
RDV Rendezvous Merlot Blend 2015 - Middleburg ($85)
The passion of Rutger de Vink is unparalleled. He was determined to make great wines from Virginia and has succeeded admirably. His team, which includes Master Sommelier Jarad Slipp and winemaker Joshua Grainer mirrors that ambition. Grainer explains that Virginia is the “perfect middle ground between Old World and New World” and is excited to see interest in Virginia wine. RDV Vineyards has 17 acres under vine nestled in the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains. The picturesque, granite-laced vineyards birth the unctuous Bordeaux varietals for the Rendezvous blend which is then sumptuously kissed by new oak. Rendezvous away, si vous plait.
Early Mountain Petit Manseng 2018 - Madison County ($25)
This zippy, crushable white has been made by Early Mountain Wines consistently over the last couple of years and the 2018 vintage is the current bottling. The grape itself is French in nature but has become acclimated to the pristine terroir of Virginia’s Blue Ridge Mountains. The winery takes its name from Revolutionary War Lieutenant Joseph Early who once owned the property. Early Mountain is also well-known for its sublime tasting room where you can sample their range of Virginia wines.
Rappahannock Cellars Chardonnay 2018 - Rappahannock County ($28)
The Delmare family relocated from California to Virginia for many reasons. For one, the opportunity to show consumers that Virginia has world class terroir and also to make their business a family affair. The Delmares have an 85 acre working farm that includes 30 acres under vine. They grow everything from Merlot, Norton, and Chardonnay on highly prized sandy-loam soils. This Burgundian-style chard comes from higher elevations followed by a whole bunch press and barrel ferment. The wine is finished with a sprinkle of new oak. Absolutely lip-smacking delicious, this wine was a favorite at the 2017 New York International Wine Competition where it took home an award for Virginia Chardonnay Winery of the Year.
Missouri
The Show-Me State certainly has shown its capability in the winemaking world. As it so happens, Augusta, Missouri was the nation’s first demarcated AVA (American Viticultural Area) in 1980—even before Napa! Immigrants planted vineyards in 19th century Missouri and produced two million gallons from just 100 wineries. The arrival of Prohibition in the 1920s slaughtered wine production in the state, much like everywhere else. Missouri’s wine industry rebounded and now is producing wines from the deeply pigmented Norton grape, the backbone of the state’s fine wine industry and its official grape.
courtesy Huston Vineyards
Try these:
Montelle Winery Norton 2016 - Augusta ($23)
Norton (sometimes known as cynthiana) was created by Virginia horticulturist Dr. Daniel Norton in 19th century Richmond and was met with local and international acclaim. The grape stems from vitis vinifera and vitis aestivalis lineage and produces round and jammy wines reminiscent of zinfandel. Montelle Winery was founded by Clayton Byers in 1970, one of the folks responsible for getting Missouri Wine back up and at ‘em. The winery also produces grappa, cider, and brandy and has a respectable philosophy when it comes to farming practices.
Augusta Winery Norton Reserve 2015 - Augusta ($27)
Sister winery to Monetelle, Augusta Winery makes some decadent versions of Missouri’s namesake grape as well. Founded in 1988 in the picturesque Missouri River Valley, Augusta Winery produces many styles of wine. Ruby ports, ice wines, fun white blends, and also some vinifera varietal wines. However, their aged Norton is the one that drives it home. Only the best of the best is used for this cuvee’s production. Grapes are hand-selected and only the more desirable oak is used. Wonderfully luxurious, this is one of the best expressions of the Norton grape out there.
winemaker Kim McPherson, courtesy McPherson Cellars
More other great American wines to get your hands on
Texas
Southold Farm + Cellar Forgone Conclusion Alicante Bouschet 2017 - High Plains ($25)
McPherson Cellars Timmons Ranch Piquepoul Blanc 2016 - High Plains ($15)
Solaro Estate Sangiovese Reserve 2011 - High Plains ($51) (Texas Winery of the Year New York International Wine Competition 2019)
Idaho
3 Horse Ranch Vineyards Single Vineyard Pinot Gris 2018 - Eagle Foothills ($18)
Huston Vineyards Chicken Dinner White 2017 - Snake River Valley ($17)
courtesy Augusta Winery
New Mexico
Gruet Brut Sparkling Rosé NV - Truth and Consequences ($16)
D.H. Lescombes Heritage Series Sémillon 2017 - Mimbres Valley ($18)
Michigan
Boathouse Vineyards Dry Dock Riesling 2017 - Leelanau Peninsula ($17) (Michigan Riesling Winery of the Year - 2019 New York International Wine Competition)
45 North Vineyards and Winery Unwooded Chardonnay 2018 - Leelanau Peninsula ($22) (Michigan Chardonnay Winery of the Year - 2019 New York International Wine Competition