Limited and Rare Whiskey To Seek Out This Fall

Dylan de Jonge via Unsplash

Dylan de Jonge via Unsplash

Fall means new rare whisky from Compass Box, Heaven Hill, Buffalo Trace, Jim Beam and more!

If you love whiskey in all its forms, early autumn is one of the most exciting times of the year to be a fan. This is when producers roll out experimental one-offs and limited expressions that showcase some of the best of barrel selections and blending techniques. While collectors can’t help themselves to snatch up these bottles simply because they exist, other enthusiasts seek them out simply for the sipping adventure. 

The not-so-fun part of this bit of whiskey business is that because so many of these bottlings are released in small quantities (sometimes retail and bar/restaurant venues can only get their hands on a bottle or two, if that), prices for the bottles, at the individual discretion of the seller, are often set far higher than the suggested retail price from the producers. Scarcity is money. 

It’s at this point of the article where I would normally suggest that if you want to try these whiskies before committing to a spendy purchase, head to a good whisky bar that offers flights and tasting pours. Not so easy in 2020, when even if the bar is operating at all and seeking to expand inventory, many distributor liquor reps have been furloughed and it’s harder to obtain rare allocations. But some did access them, to be poured either for table service or to-go flights. These drams are worth seeking out, plus it’s a great way to support a local bar in their time of need, if you have the means. 

Here are my thoughts and tasting notes for some of the most sought after releases of early fall. 

Maker’s Mark 2020 Limited Release: The 2nd expression in the Loretto, KY bourbon’s Wood Finishing Series was created with a specific “taste vision” to highlight vanilla and caramel notes, explains Maker’s Mark Director of Innovation, Jane Bowie. Working with Independent Stave Company, the final blend is finished with two different staves—SE4 from virgin French oak, convection cooked with medium heat at a short toast period, and PR5 from virgin American oak, which is slowly convection cooked at low heat. The result is exactly as Bowie describes it: “two-thirds of a s’more” (that would be minus the milk chocolatey Hershey bar flavors, but tons of graham cracker and marshmallow). It’s still as spicy as typical Maker’s just a bit richer and warmer, especially since it’s bottled at 110.8 proof. ($60)

Westland Garryana 5th Edition American single malt whiskey: Quercus garryana is an oak species native to the Pacific Northwest that is grown in what is now protected territory. But don’t fret, treehuggers--the wood used for the casks in which the single malt is aged had already fallen! This year uses the highest percentage (36%) of that oak influence to date, along with 64% first-fill bourbon. The result is an enchanting whiskey with aromas and flavors of sweet red apple, Szechuan pepper spice, and an autumnal accent of burning leaves, with a creamy center. (50% ABV, $150) (Note: releases soon)

Compass Box Hedonism Felicitas Blended Grain Scotch: Hedonism was the premier whisky from this modern Scotch bottler, and the newest in the series celebrates its 20th anniversary (hence the name). The Lead Whiskymaker for the project, James Saxon, composed the blend using three grain whiskies each distilled in a different decade—2001 Port Dundas, 1990s North British Distillery and 1980s Strathclyde. I was expecting a sweeter, more viscous experience typical of grain whisky, but don’t be fooled like I was by its lightness of weight—it really packs a punch of salty, spicy, earthy flavor. Only 2,226 bottles were produced (53% ABV, $175). 

Three to Look for from Heaven Hill 

  • 2020 Old Fitzgerald Bottled-in-Bond: the 6th release in the fetching decanter this time holds 14 year old whiskey produced in fall 2005 (see here for an explanation of bottled-in-bond). The aroma is classic bourbon, with tart fruit, cashews, a slight leatheriness and buttered grain bread. On the palate it takes on this fun banana bread and sweet toasted sesame (halvah) characteristic. Previous releases of the 14 year were a distillery visitor’s center exclusive, but with most bourbon tourism canceled this year, retailers can now carry this 100 proof beauty at a suggested price of $140. 

  • Elijah Craig Toasted Barrel: though this is technically a line extension and not a limited edition, its premier release is in low allocation for now. Original Elijah Craig Small Batch is given an extra finish in custom toasted barrels from Independent Stave Company. What’s intriguing about this bourbon is that instead of overpowering the palate with toastiness, it feels refreshingly light, with warm, pillowy textures of sweetness and spice. $50

  • Also, be on the lookout for the 2020 Parker’s Heritage release, which historically has not only shown some of the most creative expressions from Heaven Hill, it honors the late Master Distiller Parker Beam, for which it is named, by donating a portion of profits to ALS charities in his name.

Jim Beam 

  • Little Book Chapter 4 “Lessons Honored” is the latest blend by 8th generation Jim Beam distiller Freddie Noe, and honors his dad and mentor, 7th generation Master Distiller Fred Noe. Never one to shy away from unusual whiskies to spice up the final product, this time Freddie Noe used all Kentucky bourbons—one with a 4 year-old bourbon with brown rice in the mashbill, one an 8 year-old high rye, and one a 7 year-old straight bourbon. Bourbon is typically characterized as leaning toward the sweet spectrum of flavor, but this one moves the needle into more savory territory, and really does exhibit aromas and flavors of steamed brown rice, along with a chewy maltiness and subtle spice. Whiskey that tastes like kasha varnishkes? That’s not a bad thing at all. (122.8 proof, $125) 

  • Basil Hayden’s 10 Year Bourbon: this is a limited return of a more mature expression in the Basil Hayden’s portfolio, following its initial success in late 2018 (there is also a 10 Year Rye, reviewed here). It’s assumed that real whiskey drinkers only go for high proof bourbons, but this brand offshoot at a low key 80 proof has always shown a quiet elegance (and the original scored Gold at the 2020 NY International Spirits Competition), and is pleasing to sip without getting blotto from one pour. While I love the original in shaken cocktails like whiskey sours or highballs, the 10 year expression makes for an ideal aperitif-type sipper on its own, with calming attributes of toasty caramel, walnut and sharp spice to have in one’s glass while preparing dinner, or as a final nightcap. ($70)

Still Austin Straight Bourbon “The Musician” is the first in the “grain-to-glass” Texas distillery’s “archetypal Austinite” label series. The grains used for the product—70% Non GMO white corn, 25% Elbon rye, and 5% wildfire malted barley—are all grown by local Texas farmers. This release is especially bittersweet for 2020, as the Musician is meant to represent Austin as the live music capital of the world. Fittingly, the whiskey does truly sing with flavor (it’s already won a gold medal in the 2020 NY International Spirits Competition), with dulcet tones of tropical and stone fruits mixed with mid notes of pear, a sweet, creamy chorus of dulce de leche and baking spice, bridged together with a funky, coffee shop bass line of pipe tobacco, leather and espresso. (49.2% ABV, $45) 

Four Roses 2020 Limited Edition Small Batch is composed of 4 separate batches, ranging in maturation from 12 to 19 years, and is broken down as follows (the initials represent different Four Roses proprietary mash bill recipes): OBSV at 12 years, OESV at 12 years, OESK at 16 years and OBSK at 19 years. Master Blender Brent Elliott has said that each of these batches was exceptional on its own, but it’s even better as a blend. Though I haven’t tasted the batch breakdown myself, I am quite a fan of well they play off one another. Tart apple, yellow peach and a bit of banana are balanced with subtle spice, grapefruit peel, caramel, cocoa and black tea, with a long, easy-going finish. (55.65% ABV, $150)

Michter’s 10 Year Single Barrel Straight Rye: this “Kentucky style” rye contains corn and malted barley in the mash bill. Honeysuckle florals mix with tart tropical fruit, clove, cinnamon and a bit of leather, ending in a sweet toastiness. The 10 Year Single Barrel bourbon was also released recently, but I much prefer this barrel selection, which has less bitter oakiness in the finish and shows off more in the midpalate. You’re gonna fight with that wax seal over the cap, by the way. Both bottles had flawed pulls. My advice is to run a foil opener around the seal, hold the cap under hot water for about 20 seconds, then hold the top with a towel as you twist it off. May take a few tries, but it will eventually work out. $160. 

Buffalo Trace Antique Collection 2020

Each year Buffalo Trace releases five highly allocated, low yield single barrel limited edition bourbons and ryes distilled at Buffalo Trace, known as the Antique Collection, which vary each year because they are drawn from barrels stored across different warehouse locations with their own individual climate conditions. They also each all differ in age statements, recipes and proofs from previous releases. Though vendors will almost definitely charge more, the suggested retail price for each is $99. 

  • George T. Stagg bourbon: Typically the bruiser of the collection (though not this year) it’s bottled at 130.4 proof, from barrels filled in 2005 stored in warehouses L, K and Q, at 59% percent evaporation (yup, so even less of it than last year’s 54%). A stealthily quiet nose gives way to far less shyness on the palate, with a surprisingly dominant fruitiness. 

  • William LaRue Weller bourbon: as always, uncut, unfiltered, wheated, this time at 134.5 proof, barrels filled in 2008 drawn from warehouses I and C. This one fans out on the palate like a peacock’s tail feathers—apples, pears, toffee and toasted nut mix. 

  • Eagle Rare 17 Year bourbon: distilled in spring 2002 and stored in the first floor of Warehouse P, where it was drawn at 101 proof. ER has always tasted of green apples and pears to me, but this year’s release carries a good hit of spearmint and blood orange in its flavors and aromas. 

  • Thomas H. Handy Sazerac rye: distilled in spring of 2014 and stored in warehouses K, M, and N, weighing in at 129.0 proof. This is what you get if you make it to the center of a Tootsie Roll Pop, if the outer shell were a root beer and chili pepper flavored one. 

  • Sazerac 18 Year rye: distilled spring of 2002 rested on the third floor of Warehouse K, released at 90 proof. It’s typically a spice bomb, and this year doesn’t disappoint, with some espresso and bittersweet chocolate to temper it out, though there isn’t much fruit or vanilla in the mix this time. 

Others to look out for this season: 

Featured, SpiritsAmanda Schusterwhiskey, blended scotch, bourbon, single malt, new york international spirits competition, review, fallComment