Tomer Goren Explores Whisky Innovation in Tel Aviv at the Milk & Honey Distillery
When talking about Israeli alcohol, whiskey doesn’t necessarily come to mind. And yet, the small country, known primarily for its wine, is slowly but stubbornly becoming an innovator in the category. Burying whiskey under sea level? A distillery right in the heart of Tel Aviv? Milk & Honey, recently named Craft Distillery of the Year by the Whisky Magazine Awards, is doing it all.
The distillery has released four expressions from different unique cask types for sale in the US so far. There’s been the first and only single malt whisky in the world aged in a rare variety of pomegranate wine casks, a whisky aged in a chardonnay wine cask from Israel's Castel Winery which imparts earthy and grassy flavors as well as a Cognac cask release, and the last batch showcases a single malt whisky aged in a fortified red wine cask.
We sat down with Tomer Goren, Head Distiller who, in 2015, began distilling what would become a sought-after, unusual whisky, in the culinary capital of Israel, and chatted about pomegranate casks, Scottish tradition, and Israeli ingenuity.
How would you describe the state of Israeli whiskey at the moment?
There is no whisky tradition in Israel. However, Israeli whisky is in growth and development in the last few years. The M&H Distillery was the first to produce single malt whisky, but these days there are a few more distilleries and we all keep on researching and learning. For us, we knew it would be a long journey full of twists and turns, but we never doubted it would be worthwhile. We enjoy what we do, and each day gives us new challenges and creative ideas.
What sets Milk & Honey apart, in the local landscape?
We make our whisky in accordance with the SWA (Scotch Whisky Association), but because we are from Tel Aviv, Israel's startup capital, we are always thinking of bold ideas, such as aging our whisky in pomegranate wine casks or deep in the Dead Sea.
Speaking of innovation, tell me about the newest bottle and the process of its making!
The M&H Apex Dead Sea is our most recent and exciting release. It is the first whisky to be aged in the Dead Sea, the lowest point on the planet. As part of the daring Apex Dead Sea project, an array of casks of various types and sizes were placed for a period of maturation on the roof of a hotel on the Dead Sea's coast, exposed to the harsh and dynamic weather for a year, resulting in nearly 40% angels' share during that time. The M&H Apex Dead Sea is a one-of-a-kind single malt whisky. We embarked on this adventure because of our passion for whisky and our innovative spirit. This whisky is as strong and intense as the climate it has matured in, with temperatures reaching as high as 55 degrees Celsius.
What nuances should drinkers be aware of when it comes to Israeli whisky?
Our greatest advantage is Israel's 300 sunny days per year on average, as well as the Mediterranean climate. Because of the hot climate maturation, our whisky ages quickly but gracefully.
How does your location play into your products?
Our playground is the geographical diversity of our country. We leave selected casks to soak up the country's distinct terroir and impart new flavors to our single malt. Casks from Israel's finest wineries add complexity to our whisky.
What is planned for 2022?
In 2022, we will release limited editions from the APEX series, as well as single casks. We carefully select exceptional casks for each batch, chosen for their unique location of maturation or to highlight the magic of wood and terroir. Some exciting things to look forward to.