Speakeasies are Having a Moment in India

ZLB23 in Bengaluru — ZLB23 interior photo credit ZLB23 Speakeasy, Bangalore

Speakeasies in India are not messing around. They offer secrecy and surprise from the get-go. “We do not have a proper, conventional board nor a phone number or even a geo tag, the entry to the bar is through a door in an unassuming nine-seater coffee shop that masquerades as a shelf. All our reservations are done via DMs on Instagram” says Santhosh Zachariah Abraham, Managing Partner, MadCo. MadCo is short for Madras Cocktail Company which is the first speakeasy bar in the south Indian city of Chennai. Tucked away in a side street, Madco which opened on 5th Dec 2024 (exactly 91 years after prohibition ended in the US on 5th Dec 1933), has seen a phenomenal response from a discerning audience who appreciate sipping their craft cocktails over conversations in an ambiance that is experiential, engaging, exclusive and intimate. Well, that is really the essence of a speakeasy bar for you.

“For the past decade or so, speakeasies have seen a sharp uptake internationally, feeding into the need for hidden gems away from mainstream bars which are often very loud. Mirroring this interest, Indian speakeasies today have evolved into a microcosm of the country’s burgeoning cocktail culture, offering more than just a nod to Prohibition-era nostalgia. These bars create a captivating, providing a multi-sensory experience where every element—be it the décor, music, themed barware, or craft cocktails—comes together to tell a cohesive story” says Vikram Achanta, Founder & CEO, Tulleeho and Co-Founder of 30 Best Bars India and India Bartender Week.

Inspired by the Prohibition Era

The United States saw a complete ban on the sale and import of alcohol from 1920 to 1933 in response to several issues like domestic violence and child abandonment, for which alcohol was deemed to be the root cause. “It was during this time that plenty of ‘secret bars’ and ‘hidden taverns’ sprung up in inconspicuous places and were often fronted by legitimate businesses whether a grocery store, tailor shop or a bookstore. In fact, most of these businesses were traditionally run by women as it was considered safe and one would not normally suspect them! The entry to such bars was always hidden and it was called speakeasy as one had to really speak softly and not make too much noise, lest you would be caught by the authorities” adds Abraham.

Speakeasy-style bars have been gaining popularity in India as they offer their patrons an element of discovery and mystery as well as an entire cocktail-centric experience. “By definition, these bars are hidden and require some special way to access them. However, more than that, the actual experience of these types of bars is that they are all full of nostalgia and old-school charm, warm hospitality and are very focused on their cocktail programs. For instance, both PCO Bombay (Mumbai) and PCO Delhi, are tucked away within busy markets and first-time guests are always shocked and surprised when they enter the bars. However, what keeps patrons coming back over and over again is the innovation in cocktails and staff who focus on getting to know their patrons” says Radhika Dhariwal, Director and Founder of Passcode Hospitality.

Enigma and Exclusivity

First impact interiors photo credit ZLB23 Speakeasy, Bangalore

Entering ZLB23, a Kyoto Speakeasy Bar in the IT capital of India, Bengaluru is akin to embarking on an adventure beginning with a hidden entrance through a kitchen and an elevator marked only by the a cryptic “Z.” “Anticipation builds as the elevator ascends, whispering secrets to those privileged enough get a personalized message from Zia. The atmosphere transports you to a bygone era as the elevator doors open and the bar reveals itself in the dim glow of maroon shadows. The lighting gives the room a soft, enchanting glow and the furniture, decorated in rich brown tones, invites you to a world of refined sophistication that encourages quiet conversations and shared secrets,” says Madhav Sehgal, Area Vice President – South India, The Leela Palaces Hotels & Resorts. ZLB23 was recently recognized as India’s Best Bar in Asia and was ranked #40 on the 50 Best Bars of Asia 2024 list.

Whether standalone or part of a larger venue like a hotel, speakeasies hinge on a narrative unique to their context. “A standalone speakeasy might focus on an independent story of intrigue, while a hotel-based speakeasy becomes a ‘story within a story’, offering a secret world distinct from its surroundings. This harmonious layering of strategy, design, and storytelling is what keeps the allure of speakeasies alive” adds Vikram Achanta.

Speakeasy Cocktails: Creativity and Craftsmanship

Corduroy cocktail at PCO — Corduroy cocktail photo credit PCO Mumbai

The Speakeasy bars in India are known for their strong cocktail programs, which are technique-driven, ensuring that the drinks are world-class in terms of style, taste, and trend. They are meticulously created with the finest of ingredients and often align with the overarching theme of the bar. “PCO Mumbai has a very interesting cocktail program inspired by textiles, as the bar itself used to be an old textile mill. Similarly, PCO Delhi, which was India’s first speakeasy style bar, has a menu that celebrates the forbidden and clandestine nature of speakeasies themselves by including a lot of “forbidden” ingredients on the menu—from MSG, to tobacco, to hash oil” adds Radhika Dhariwal. Think drinks like ‘Corduroy’, a brandy-based drink with Vecchia Romagna Classica infused with falernum spice and garnished with mulled wine foam and ‘Raw Silk’ which is a shiso-infused Pistola Joven with notes of peach and passion fruit.

Shoyu Ramen cocktail photo credit ZL823 Speakeasy, Bangalore

Whether through rare spirits, hyperlocal ingredients, or avant-garde techniques, speakeasies are creating drinks that stand apart for their thematic depth and immersive experience. At ZLB23 most of the cocktail ingredients are imported as many of the Japanese herb and spices cannot be sourced locally. “In terms of innovative beverage techniques, we are almost aligned with global standards. We use a lot of fresh fruits and herbs and employ techniques like sous pression and cryo concentration to achieve the right texture and taste” adds Madhav Sehgal. Most of their cocktails tell the story of Japan and some of them include ‘Shoyu Ramen’, an exquisite cocktail inspired by the essence of Japanese ramen, harmonizing shiro miso, light shoyu, tequila, and sake to create a savoury umami finish and ‘Yuzu Picante’ which is a fusion of Japanese pickling artistry and Mexican zest. ‘Kyoto Autumn’, a carbonated cocktail focusing on autumn produces in Japan is a highball format cocktail made using Mezcal, pink guava, nectarine, passionfruit etc.

Crafting Cocktails at MadCo photo credit MadCo

“At Madco we do not use any ready syrups or packaged juices. We build all our cocktails from scratch and create our own infusions. Some of our in-house creations include the ‘Suleimani Old Fashioned’ which is a matcha infused Bourbon, ‘Fiery Amethyst’ which is a purple cabbage-infused vodka with jalapeño for a savoury punch and Lame Duck which is a scotch whisky drink with orange juice and other ingredients” adds Abraham. Interestingly, the latter is served in a quirky, yellow, ceramic duck shaped mug.

Spiced honey and star anise infused cocktail at Cocktails & Dreams Speakeasy — Spiced honey and star anise infused cocktail photo credit Cocktails & Dreams Speakeasy

At Cocktails and Dreams Speakeasy, it is all about customization. “At our bar, guests can come in and talk to the bartender, and get their drinks made to their specifications. We use ingredients as varied as hibiscus, passion fruit, spiced honey and even star anise” says Minakshi Singh, Co-Founder and CEO, Cocktails and Dreams Speakeasy.

With interesting events like paired dining experiences, collaborations with renowned chefs, and even cocktail-mixing workshops, Indian speakeasies cater to the elevated tastes of well-heeled and well-traveled urban Indians as well as ex-pats. “Expats, familiar with the global speakeasy trend, often find these venues reminiscent of international standards while appreciating the Indian twist. All in all, it is a community that seeks quality, intimacy, and a story behind every sip.” says Achanta.