Beer Style Guide: Get to Know California Common with Em Sauter
California Common is a wholly American style with a unique history and flavor and now it is known by one brewery’s modern interpretation of it.
Although the history of California Common is shrouded in mystery (like most beer styles), there is one beer that is the pioneer of the modern style, Anchor Steam in San Francisco.
History of Steam Beer
Anchor Brewing Steam photo credit Ryan Tuttle
During the Gold Rush, beer was produced to slake the thirst of many patrons who flocked to seek their fortune and by 1900 there were two dozen breweries in San Francisco making a beer known locally as “steam beer.” Why is it called steam beer—well, I’ve heard a couple of theories from the “steam” the keg produced when tapped to the clouds above the brewery since they cooled their wort in what were called “conditioning vessels” on the roof that would create clouds of steam jutting from the brewery. It was a beer made with lager yeast (what they had available) but fermented warm and quickly. According to Jeff Alworth in his book “The Beer Bible,” the whole process took about a week to complete. For comparison, ale brewing is usually from kettle to bottle in about two weeks.
In the 1960’s, Fritz Maytag bought the Anchor Brewing Company, which had been a brewery since the late 19th century. Maytag was determined to turn around the production and this was the last of the original steam breweries. I heard a delightful story while judging with Randy Mosher during the Great American Beer Festival last year about how the modern “steam beer” (side note—Anchor owns the trademark to “steam beer” so the Beer Judge Certification Program or “BJCP” calls it a “California Common”) came to be. Maytag called up various suppliers and bought what they had available so Northern Brewer hops, pale and crystal malts, yeast and thus that’s how the modern recipe came together. For more information, I recommend the new Anchor history book that was just recently released by Dave Burkhardt.
How California Common is Brewed
California Common can be brewed with pale malt and a little crystal or toasted malt plus American hops that don’t produce citrus flavors and special lager yeast that can be fermented warmer. BJCP notes that if you use German lager yeast, it can create sulfur-y off flavors so be sure to use “California lager” yeast.
Tasting Notes & Pairing
What will you experience when you drink a California common? The style has fragrant aromas and flavors of mint, dried flowers, toast and maybe a little caramel. It finishes nice and dry making it a perfect beer to have with dinner. California Common is a great food beer as there’s something about the style that harmonizes well with lots of dishes from tacos to sandwiches to Chinese cuisine to roast chicken to high end dishes like duck. Having a six pack of Anchor Steam in your fridge is always nice to have as it’ll work with almost all foods.
Beers to Try
Anchor Steam
The original and very easy to find but I do find that it’s best drunk fresh in San Francisco on tap while enjoying that famous San Fran microclimate. It’s a requirement that I have at least one at the airport before I fly back to the East Coast. There’s nothing better than fresh Anchor Steam.
This Iowa behemoth known for hype IPAs and stouts also makes a California Common, which was a surprise to me when I learned about this beer a few years ago. It’s downright drinkable and is more golden and pale than other versions of this beer I have experienced.
Your Local Brewery
Yes, the cop out answer, but this style isn’t really brewed in any large capacity except by Anchor Steam and perhaps one or two other breweries, but your local brewery may brew one as they are the most reliable place to try unique and interesting styles.