Beer Style Guide: Get to Know British Strong Ale and Old Ale with Em Sauter
British strong ales and old ales are not seen much nowadays but they have a great history in England as an important part of beer culture dating back centuries. According to the Beer Judge Certification Program (BJCP), the British strong ale category is a broad category where the focus of the beer is alcohol strength. Keep in mind “strong” to the British starts at 5.5% ABV as many of their popular pub ales are around 4% or less. This category can include many styles like strong milds, etc. but today we will focus on the winter warmer aspect.
Winter Warmers
Winter warmers are usually higher ABV British ales brewed for winter as a perfect complement to falling temperatures. These usually are darker (although Samuel Smith’s version is a rich deep amber) and have rich toasty malt quality and they can be a little hoppy too. They usually aren’t spiced in England but can be spiced with Christmas spices in American craft beer versions. Aroma and flavors of strong ales can include fruitiness like pear, toasted nuts, caramel, and dried fruit.
Old Ales
Old ales can be brewed in their own right or can be the aged version of British strong ale. It’s one of the only styles that can be created from aging another style (the other is Belgian gueuze and we will get to that later). Normally you don’t want your beers to have the sweetness of oxidation and the flavors that can accompany that like sherry, paper or even wild yeast like brett but with old ales, that’s what you want. These beers were popular on British estates before the rise of porter. These barrel aged beers were laid down in cellars for years and open for special occasions or blended with unaged (what was back then called “mild”) beer. Glassware for these beers resemble port glasses as they are dainty but wine glasses of this era are also quite small. In England today there are two forms of old ale—ones similar to dark milds that are lower ABV and the high ABV aged versions. Old ales have flavors similar to strong ales but can have aged character- think sherry, raisins, molasses and leather.
How Old Ale and Strong Ale is Made
Both old ale and strong ale beers can be brewed a variety of ways using pale, crystal and dark malts like chocolate malt but also wheat and flaked corn. They can use sugar to boost alcohol strength. Hopping can be assertive but it shouldn’t taste unreasonably bitter because of the alcohol level. English hops and English yeast are used. Old ales can be barrel aged after fermentation so can have a pleasant oaky character as well as a slightly funky leather taste that comes from brettanomyces that may be in the wood. Most old ales of our modern brewing age do not utilize wild yeast.
Pairing Old Ales and Strong Ales
British strong ales and old ales are excellent for winter so pair with pleasing roasted foods or delectable British hand pies. Anything savory or filling should do the trick. These beers also pair really well with caramel desserts as they tamper down the sweetness of the dessert. Sticky toffee pudding and old ale is a delight.
Beers to Try
Harvey’s Elizabethan Ale
Brewed for the coronation of Queen Elizabeth II, Elizabethan Ale is a lovely year-round offering. Brewed to mimic the “October” beers of 16th century estate breweries, Harvey’s does call this a “barley wine” but at 7.5%, the BJCP categorizes this as a strong ale. Fun fact- Brewmaster Miles Jenner once brewed with the Queen herself!
Sam Smith Winter Welcome
The Winter Welcome pours a lovely deep amber and is a “welcome” addition to any holiday table. Easy to find in America. At 6% ABV, it’s a great beer to share or open a bottle yourself and not share at all like Scrooge.
North Coast Old Stock Ale
Fort Bragg, CA based North Coast brews a 10.2% “stock” ale meant to be laid down in your basement for special occasions or to drink just because. Great to buy a four pack of and open one once every six months to watch the beer morph and change simply by aging.