Beer Style Guide: Get to Know Berliner Weisse
A beer style that essentially died in its native city, Berliner Weisse is having a moment with sour beer lovers across the globe, especially as a base style for fruited beers which are very popular in tasting rooms across America.
Berliner Weisse was part of the “white beers” of German ales. It has been made for centuries and was popular in Berlin and in East Germany during Soviet rule. The spritzy, low alcohol (3% ABV or so) beer was also popular with Napoleon’s troops who called it the “Champagne of the north.”
How Berliner Weisse is Made
Berliner Weisse is made with malted wheat and pilsner malt. There are a few ways to add sourness to it without stepping over the “reinheitsgebot” or the German purity law (since you can’t add anything but water, hops, malt and yeast to beer) but some ways of making this beer were grandfathered in during German unification in the 19th century. Traditionally it would be soured naturally but today it’s either made with acidulated malt or in America, it’s more and more defined by being made by kettle souring where lactic acid is added and allowed to sit at hot temperatures for 24 hours or so. Purists will tell you that wild yeast like Brettanomyces should be in this style and I’ve seen them made both ways. I prefer the brett versions of this beer as it adds a dryness and a fruity note which also adds complexity.
Tasting Notes & Pairings
In a straight Berliner, the flavors and aromas are reminiscent of tart apple, lemon, and bread dough. Before the fruited canned sours of today, Berliners would add syrups to these beers in two classic flavors: raspberry and woodruff, which is green colored and tastes like marshmallow (it’s delicious) to lessen the sourness.
Berliner Weisses are great on their own as an aperitif before a meal or on a hot day, but they go well with light foods like salads, fish and vegetables.
Beers to Try
Berliner Kindl
Berliner-Kindl-Schultheiss-Brauerei last remaining Berliner brewery in Berlin, I’ve never seen this in America so you’ll have to travel to Berlin to try one of the originals. Mix with syrups and serve in a chalice or what looks like a cereal bowl (one of Kindl’s trademark glasses) to complete the vibe.
OEC Exilis
CT based OEC Brewing makes some unique beers and their straight Berliner is very pleasant and made with a semi spontaneous fermentation, so you’ll get to experience that light funk of brett here. If you enjoy it in the tasting room, they have homemade syrup to add to your glass. https://wp.oecbrewing.com/exilis-2/
Newburgh Checkpoint Charlie
Newburgh Brewing Company, the NY based brewery makes some great classic styles (their cream ale is dynamite) and their Berliner is a tart, refreshing example of the style. I once enjoyed a mug of it on the train home from NYC on a summer day and it hit the spot.