Wine From Up High

courtesy Terrazas de los Andes

Wines made from grapes grown in some of the world’s steepest vineyards

Wine grapes have personality traits and emotional reactions that can be compared to human ones. They thrive when happy, wilt when depressed, they even either love heights or have an extreme aversion to them. Certain grapes, like malbec, cabernet sauvignon, syrah, grenache, viognier and even chardonnay are bonafide thrill seekers, and seem to enjoy the challenge of enduring often grueling conditions in the truly dizzying elevations of certain vineyards. The Mendoza region of Argentina is particularly known for its high altitude vineyards, but so are areas such as Alto Adige in Italy, the Northern Rhône Valley in France, Red Mountain in Washington State and even parts of the Sonoma and Napa valleys in California. 

Why plant up high? 

The conditions in high elevations, those 800 meters or more above sea level, tend to bestow grapes growing there with a longer hang time, allowing for optimal ripeness. Warm, sunny days with dependable periods of irrigation, mixed with strong, cool winds off the mountains, tend to whip grapes into having thicker skins, lower alcohol levels, higher acidity and more tannic structure, all of which make for balanced flavors and longer aging potential. 

canopies protect mourvedre at WeatherEye on Red Mountain, photo by Amanda Schuster

Mighty winds

It does indeed get super windy up on those hills. Strong wind conditions call for extra viticultural management. WeatherEye is a vineyard project in Washington’s Red Mountain from former Microsoft exec Cam Myhrvold and viticulturalist Ryan Johnson. There, inspired by high altitude wines from the Rhône Valley in France, Johnson and his team grow mourvedre grapes on a steep, north-facing slope that is planted with meticulous canopy management—individual stone huts have been built over the vines. They resemble burial relics from an ancient civilization, or perhaps an alien invasion of some sort, but these odd little structures ensure the grapes don’t get ravaged by the wind. Other, let’s call them “free range” (no huts) varietals grown at WeatherEye include Rhône-esque grenache (both rouge and blanc), syrah and viognier, but also funkier grapes like graciano.

Baking sun

Too much sun exposure is another extreme condition challenging high altitude vintners. Anne Bousquet, owner of Domaine Bousquet, which organically grows its grapes high in Tupungato in Mendoza’s Uca Valley in Argentina says, “Mendoza is subject to some of the highest levels of sun radiation in South America, which can negatively impact the quality of fruit, leading to sunburned grapes and unwanted toast flavors.” She says that canopy management not only protects from wind, but also sun radiation. The shade helps promote full ripeness for both flavor and acidity.  

Other challenges

Then there’s the opposite of too much sun. “Longer-maturing grape varieties—syrah and cabernet sauvignon, for example—can be vulnerable to early frost, if the fruit has failed to attain a certain level of ripeness,” adds Bousquet. 

Marcos Fernandez, Senior Winemaker at Terrazas de los Andes, also based in Mendoza, says the key is to stay near the vineyards and be vigilant, especially at crucial times for grape development. “Because all of the climate conditions are extreme, and you have to be very close to each small piece of vineyard, even more so near to the ripening time. The sun is stronger, and nights are cooler. Soils are very stony and sandy, so the irrigation and canopy management are very important.”

In a big way, vineyards at these elevations resemble infants in their first few months of development in that they require a lot of hands on attention, (and they might complain until you figure out what they need). Imagine going through that every year! In the instance of WeatherEye, every varietal is handled differently depending on the unique conditions—wind, sun exposure, soil type, irrigation, etc.—of each patch (Johnson refers to them as “islands”) of their individual swatch of mountain where they’re planted. The results are worth all that extra codling. Though most of us still have yet to taste wine from grapes grown at WeatherEye, winemakers from Force Majeure, Sleight of Hand, Liminal, and others have invested in vineyard plots there, and even California wineries like Duckhorn have invested in Red Mountain vineyards. 

the view downhill from WeatherEye, photo by Amanda Schuster

Despite the challenges, high altitude winemakers tend to say they feel lucky to have access to such balanced grapes. Wines from Alamos, for example, have continued to win gold medals in competitions such as the 2019 NY International Wine Competition. In fact, Argentina has even increased its altitude allowance for grape growing. “Before the nineties, the maximum altitude for Mendoza was 1,000 meters/3,280 feet above sea level,” explains Fernandez. “Twenty-five years ago, we were the first pioneers in the famous sub appellation of Gualtallary. Today, we have broken a new barrier planting at 1,600 meters/5,250 feet above sea level.” 

I’ll think about what it must be like to pick those grapes next time I complain about having to get up on a stepladder when I change a ceiling lamp lightbulb. 

Wines to try: 

Bodega Norton Barrel Select Chardonnay 2017 ($22): Chardonnay grapes for this wine are grown in Luján de Cuyo in Mendoza at about 1,219 meters above sea level. Wine aged in French oak is blended with wine aged exclusively in stainless steel, so there’s a hint of buttery shortbread, but with fresh green apple and pineapple rounding it out. I so want this with sushi! 

Abbazia di Novacella Kerner 2018 ($22): We should all be drinking more kerner! It’s got the grassy aromatics of a sauvignon blanc, but with the richer, stone fruitiness of riesling. This winery dating back to the 12th century uses grapes that are grown way up in the Dolomites in Italy’s Alto Adige region in the north. Apricots and peaches get a piquant punch of kumquat, with a clean, refreshing finish. 

Domaine Bousquet Gaia Red Blend 2018 ($20): Named for the earth goddess in Greek mythology, this blend of 50% malbec, 45% syrah and 5% cabernet sauvignon is made from grapes all organically farmed in the Tupungato district of Mendoza’s Uco Valley, the highest growing zone in Mendoza. It’s a fitting name as earth is definitely the dominant feature in its flavor profile, though fresh, dark berries and ripe plums and a hint of white chocolate burst through, especially after a little aeration. This luscious sipper is ready to rock now, but just a couple of years may be all it takes for sheer glory. The 2018 vintage is said to be one of the best in 20 years in the region owing to mellower Zonda winds and moderate rainfall. 

courtesy Domaine Bousquet

Terrazas de los Andes Reserva Malbec 2017 ($20): Grapes for this wine were grown at Las Compuertas and Paraje Altamira in the Uco Valley at 1,070 meters above sea level. One would expect to taste a wine that has some tannic toughness to it, but there’s a surprisingly gentle entry on the palate, with dark berries in the finish and lingering foresty pine aromatics. Sure, steak is the immediate pairing idea, but this would be lovely with a peppery pasta dish. 

Caro 2016 ($65): The famed Barons de Rothchild family of France joined up with the Nicolas Catena family of Argentina to form one powerhouse of a winemaking team. For this elegant, slightly peppery, malbec-dominant blend with cabernet, grapes are grown high in the Uca Valley in Mendoza. A Bordeaux of this stature would be far more pricey, and this cellar-worthy red is definitely worth a little investment. Or heck, drink it now with a really great burger (though hold the pickles, as they’ll clash a bit) or peppery shrimp tacos. 

L’Ecole No. 41 Ferguson Vineyard 2017 ($60) : The grapes for this Washington blend (60% cab, 28% merlot, 7 % cab franc, 5% malbec) are planted on a high ridge in Walla Walla in rich, volcanic soils. The fruit benefits from a long hang time, which means there’s more time to ripen, resulting in a wine with plush, velvety, nearly chocolatey deliciousness with a hint of bay leaf and sage.