What’s Tony Drinking? Spirits in Utah & A Last Word Chaser in NYC
When In Utah….
New Riff’s Maltster T50 Crystal Malt Bourbon
I traveled to Park City, Utah on official bragging-dad business — my daughter’s professional acting debut happened to be in a movie premiering at the Sundance Film Festival. The missus, the budding movie star and her acting coach (who also had a film to promote at the festival) rented a gorgeous Airbnb apartment nearby for the occasion. And since you only get one first-ever Sundance premiere, I had to pack some pretty good booze for the chilly Utah nights and the big occasion. And I succeeded mightily, in my humble opinion. Along with plenty of soda for the 12-year-old contingent (and, OK, some Diet Cokes for the rest of us), I packed New Riff’s Maltster T50 Crystal Malt Bourbon, a 6 year old bottled-in-bond expression most notable for the T50 crystal malt, typically used in pale ales and bitters, that makes up 15% of the mashbill. I couldn’t tell you what percentage of the flavor comes from the T50, but it’s a freaking delicious whiskey, with more cereal notes than your typical bourbon and lots of caramel, honey and cocoa powder, along with rye spice. If you see a bottle in the wild, either buy it immediately or put it on hold and call me to come pick it up.
Our other toasting-the-child/relaxing-in-Utah hooch we sampled was Foursquare’s Isonomy rum, part of its ongoing Exceptional Cask series. It’s considered by many to be the best rum released by the famed Barbados distillery in 2022, which also means it’s one of the best rums released by anyone last year. A blend of pot and column still rums aged entirely in ex-bourbon casks and bottled at a cask strength of 58% ABV with no added sugar, colorings, flavorings or other assorted hooey, it’s simply a masterpiece — simple, classic rum making at its finest. Oak, vanilla, chocolate, baking spices, a touch of dark fruit, all in perfect balance, and surprisingly easy to sip neat at this strength. It was my pick for a nightcap when we returned from the afterparty to celebrate both the film’s premiere and my daughter showing a heretofore unknown ability to withstand loud music, crowds, and hobnobbing with movie stars for an extended period of time (OK, an hour, but hey, it’s a start!). Both rum and bourbon paired very nicely with the housemade “Sundance Snacks” (dulcey chocolate-coated toffee) from the gang at L’Avenue at Saks Fifth Avenue, which they kindly gave us for the trip. We forgot to bring them to the screening, alas, but we were too excited to eat anyway.
Elk Filet & Utah Gin — Who Knew?
Due to the assorted dietary restrictions/general pickiness of our crew, we didn’t eat out much in Park City, but we did hit one phenomenal eatery during our stay. If you can eat pretty much anything, Twisted Fern is a must-visit. But if you’ve got gluten or dairy allergies (or you’re just a 12 year old who likes about seven things and that’s it), it’s a godsend. All food-related issues dealt with cheerfully and efficiently, and deliciously besides. I had an elk filet that was so tender and flavorful I’d give up beef if I could find elk in more NYC restaurants. I paired it with a martini made with a locally distilled gin from Alpine Distilling. It’s very light, clean and delicate — I didn’t try it on its own, but in the martini I got some juniper and citrus and a hint of eucalyptus. If I had to compare it to any gin, it’d be Plymouth, although Alpine comes in at a higher proof, 90 to be exact. It paired beautifully with the elk, complementing the meat while graciously yielding center stage to it. I followed it up with an Alpine Gin Thyme Gimlet (the regular one is made with the also-excellent Ransom Dry Gin — a nice, herbaceous, almost savory take on the classic. Will I hunt down Alpine Gin in New York? Maybe. Will I have it the next time I’m in Utah? Hell yes.
Speaking Of Gin….
Farmer’s Organic Gin, brought to you by the folks who also bring Michter’s whiskeys to the public, is mostly known for being one of the first certified organic gins on the market. But it’s tended to get lost in the shuffle during the dozen or so years it’s been around, at bars and liquor stores and even at my home. Part of it is that the brand has generally kept a low profile, and part of it is that there are just so many good gins out there. I’ll admit it, my bottle has been gathering a little dust as of late.
That’s changed big-time since the release of the new upgraded Farmer’s. The bottle looks a lot spiffier, and what’s inside tastes a lot spiffier, too. Now produced grain-to-glass on a single family farm in Idaho, with a new botanical lineup including hemp seed, it’s a little less spicy than the former Farmer’s but beautifully rounded and balanced, with a mouthfeel and a classic flavor that, on the first couple of ‘tinis, reminded me a little of a gentler Tanqueray. But I’ll be diving in and doing further “research” regularly. Oh, and it’s still certified organic of course!
Le Rock Rocks
I had a week or so of forced sobriety thanks to the 2023 version of Covid, which was thankfully a lot milder than the 2022 version — no brain fog, no distorted senses of smell and taste. That said, I still wouldn’t recommend falling off the wagon with the likes of What’s Tony Drinking? regular Philip Duff, drinking loads of highly potent booze at Le Rock. But I did it, and je ne regrette rien, baby. Le Rock recently nabbed a three-star rating in the New York Times.
Philip and I didn’t have any food, but the bar, helmed by the delightful and ridiculously talented Estelle Bossy, was spectacular from start to finish. The L’Alaska, with the classic gin-Yellow Chartreuse backbone enlivened by a bit of Chartreuse’s Vegetal Elixir (finally available in the States!), was the best I’ve ever had. I followed it up with a Pineau Colada — made with pineau des Charentes and a bit of plum brandy instead of rum, it’s tart and elegant and defies expectations in the best possible way. After that, my memories start to get a little hazy. I know we had a Last Word (equal parts gin, Green Chartreuse, maraschino liqueur and lime juice), and a sip of unadulterated Vegetal Elixir and a delicious amaro and… well, doing that while newly recovered from Covid and on an empty stomach may not have been the greatest idea. But what doesn’t kill you makes you stronger, and I will be one strong SOB the next time I darken Le Rock’s door.