What is Cynar and Why do Bartenders Love it?

Artichokes are not so commonly found at the bar so it’s hard to miss Cynar, a striking green bottle with a giant artichoke on the label and also a 2021 NY International Spirits Competition Gold winner. Chefs and sommeliers know that dishes that feature the bitter artichoke can be very difficult to pair with wine because they contain cynarine, a chemical compound that causes things consumed with it to taste oddly sweet and one dimensional. But this bitter acid brings a unique element to the flavor of Cynar, combining with its thirteen botanicals to create a beverage that is beloved in the spirits world. An Italian amaro, in English it is pronounced, “Chee-nar.”

History of Cynar

At just 70 years old, this fast-growing member of the amaro category is also one of the youngest traditional Italian amari, brought to life in Venice in 1952 by Angelo Dalle Molle, a businessman and visionary in the realm of linguistics and artificial intelligence. He labeled and marketed the complex bittersweet (and very low proof at 34%) drink as an apertivo, causing confusion in traditional Italian circles who liked their apertivi red and their spritzes pink. But according to Brand Ambassador Daniel Warrilow, Cynar “fits right in” to the Italian drinking culture of the 50’s and 60’s with tall drinks and afternoon spritzes. “Both Aperol and Cynar come from the Veneto, which is also the region that Prosecco comes from, so it makes sense that they would all…find their way into drinks together,” alongside modern classics like the Americano.

Cynar 70

In 2017, Cynar 70, a higher proof and more deeply bitter version, was launched for the South American market, thanks to Italian expats’ and Argentine natives’ mighty love of Fernet and Cokes. A shot of Cynar 70 is bracing like Fernet Branca, and, according to Warrilow, works beautifully in split base drinks given cheeky names like the Cynar-garita and the Cyn-aquiri. Cynar 70 Proof was a 2021 NY International Spirits Competition Double Gold winner.

How to Enjoy Cynar

“The bottle doesn’t come with a handbook on Italian eating and drinking,” continues Warrilow, “and bartenders now are exploring and experimenting, asking what was this originally used for? And what boundaries can we push?”

The classic way to enjoy Cynar is neat, as an appetite-stimulating sip before dinner or after for its digestive properties. Cynar and tonic makes a remarkable refresher, and Warrilow recommends a Cynar Julep, a combo of Cynar, lime and grapefruit juices poured over pebble ice and served with fresh mint, as a super tasty and unusual low ABV brunch drink. The Little Italy, a modern classic from Audrey Saunders at New York City’s now defunct Pegu Club, punches up the standard rye Manhattan with a half ounce of Cynar instead of bitters for an Italian touch.

"Cynar Rye Smash" by Kevin L O'Mara is marked with CC BY-NC-ND 2.0.

Cynar shots are frequently offered as an industry handshake, and the artichoke makes for lots more punny cocktail names. Says Warrilow, “We started doing split shots…half Cynar and rye is a Rynar, Ancho Reyes is a Chile Choke, with mezcal it’s a Smoke and Choke.” Next time you are thirsty and feeling clever, reach for the bottle with the artichoke on the label and see what you come up with.