Tony's Whisky Corner: Knob Creek 12 & 15 Year Bourbon
Knob Creek releases two older whiskey expressions at reasonable price points.
Time was, Knob Creek had a problem aging its whiskey. The best kind of problem, in fact — the brand was so popular there wasn’t enough of its 9-year-old bourbon on hand to meet demand. The first time it happened, in 2009, the powers that be at Jim Beam (soon to become Beam Suntory) simply stopped production for six months, which was both an impressive show of integrity and a great P.R. move. Alas, a second shortage in 2016 did result in the elimination of the brand’s age statement, though to be fair, the no-age-statement Knob Creek was a close enough simulation of the 9 year old that little was lost besides the number on the bottle.
Knob Creek has clearly been working hard to avoid future shortages. In 2020, Knob Creek not only reinstated its 9 year age statement, but it’s also introduced two new and even older bourbons — a 12 year old bourbon that’s now part of the permanent range, and a limited edition 15 year old that’s the oldest KC release yet. If you ask me, it’s damn near impossible to improve on the original, which has been my go-to mixing bourbon for decades, and one of my favorite sippers as well. But since the brand started rapidly expanding in the ‘10s, they’ve produced some excellent additions to the flagship expression, including a 120-proof single barrel bourbon and several different ryes. So how do the newbies stack up?
Knob Creek Small Batch 12 Year Old Bourbon ($60) is the same 50% ABV as its younger sibling, but three extra years in the barrel gives it a spicier, slightly hotter feel, with the oak and ethanol combining to make a whiskey that’s not for the faint of heart. However, if your tongue can handle the tingle, you’re going to encounter some deliciousness — baking spices, caramel, toasted marshmallow, and just a touch of bubblegum (a weird but not unpleasant hallmark of the entire Knob Creek line), with a dry, tobacco and leather-heavy finish that reflects its age. It’s simultaneously an argument for how beautiful older whiskeys can be… and also why they’re not for everyone. At $60, it’s a little pricey for mixing, but it does make a terrific, flavorful Manhattan. It also recently won a gold medal at the 2020 NY International Spirits Competition, all judged by spirits industry trade buyers.
15 years of good ol’ Kentucky aging is a lot for a bourbon, but Knob Creek 15 Year Limited Edition Bourbon ($100) is a fine elder statesman. Like the 12 year, the 15 has plenty of dry oak on the palate, along with baking spices, toffee, and caramel (it won silver at the 2020 NYISC). Interestingly, underneath the woodsiness are traces of dark fruit, notably cherry. The finish is long and satisfying, dry with powerful notes of oak and leather. If you like your bourbon on the younger, more sprightly side, this may not be for you, but fans of longer-aged bourbon will adore it. Is it worth $40 more for a bottle than the 12 year old? Not necessarily, but a Benjamin for a 15 year old bourbon is still a pretty reasonable price. And the big question remains — what else has Knob Creek got quietly aging in its rickhouses? Judging from how quickly we’re seeing new offerings from the brand, we’ll be finding out before long.