The History of Spanish Style Rums & Top Brands Today
Why Spanish Rum is Ron?
One of the first mysteries of rum is the meaning of the words rhum, rum, and ron. Found on a bottle label, these words immediately indicate the region and pedigree of where and how the rum is produced. “Ron”, which means rum in Spanish, represents the rums that have been produced in countries and islands that were settled by the Spanish Empire during the Age of Exploration and remained under the empire's control until the territory’s freedom was achieved.
A Brief History of Rum Production in Spanish Territories & Colonies
To understand the origins of Spanish rums, one must look to the history of the islands of Cuba and Hispaniola. Compared to the English and French colonies, which embraced early rum production, the Spanish treated early rum production as a threat to the sales of Spanish brandy and wine. This, according to author Dave Broom in his book Rum: The Manual, led to "in 1714, a Royal Decree ordered all rum-making equipment to be confiscated and broken up in order to safeguard the production and sale of Spanish brandy and wine." This decree set back all spirit production in the Spanish colonies and led to internal discord between the territories. In 1762, the British laid siege to Havana, Cuba, between March and August as part of their Seven Year War and eventually conquered the city. Now under British control, a fleet of merchant ships descended upon the island from Europe and the North American colonies, bringing 4000 slaves as well as equipment and materials to grow sugarcane and begin producing rum. The next year, the Seven Year War ended with the Treaty of Paris, and the Spanish government gave up their Florida territory to regain control of Cuba. King Charles III of Spain, following the guidance of his counsel, gradually lifted decrees preventing the production of rum and began treating it as an exportable good that, in time, would help increase the quality of life for the Spanish colonists and set the stage for the spirit to become one of the three most dominant rum "styles".
It was not until the late 1800s, with the age of steam and the industrialization of sugar production, that we saw rum production in Spanish territory shift from using pot stills to the new continuous column still. This profile is created by fermenting molasses or concentrated cane juice, also known as honey, which, depending on the company, creates a lighter bodied spirit that’s flavor profile is influenced by the barrel(s) that it is aged in. Each brand has its own proprietary methods that help it achieve its unique flavor profile per the specifications of the company's Maestros Roneros or rum masters.
Barrels Aging of Spanish Style Rum
"Cuba 3.1.2006 15-16-21" by Sami Keinänen is licensed under CC BY-SA 2.0
One consistency across all Spanish style rum brands is that they prefer using used American white oak bourbon barrels as part of their aging process. However, it is the way many of the companies use techniques learned from aging brandy, sherry, and vinegar that helps clearly define the category and what is considered a Spanish style rum. For example, it is not uncommon to see the phrase "Solera aged." The Solera method is an aging process that employs fractional blending. That means the finished product is a blend of different ages, with the average age increasing over the years to maintain a consistent style and quality. Unfortunately, the word solera has been abused by marketers and can be seen as a red flag concerning the age and quality of the rum.
It is also quite common to see the rums from these companies go through additional aging or finishing in other spirit casks, with sherry being a notable favorite for the fruity nuances it adds to the flavor profile. Finally, depending on the brand, sugar and other additives may be used by the blenders to achieve the desired flavor profile, with caramel coloring added for consistency. Together, all these factors have helped create a unique identity that easily distinguishes the legacy of Spanish rum and differentiates it from the rums produced using historical English and French methods.
5 Spanish Style Rum Producers
Ron Abuelo - Panama
The company’s origin traces back to its founder, Don José Varela Blanco, who is credited with building the Republic of Panama’s first sugar mill in 1908. The company historians share that in 1936 his son convinced him to produce a sugar cane juice liqueur known as Seco Herrerano, which 24 years later led to the first bottles of Ron Abuelo being made at the Varela Hermanos distillery in Pesé, Panama. In the past 20 years, the brand has grown in the global market. Beyond its core expressions, Ron Abuelo’s recent releases, such as Ron Abuelo XII Años Two Oaks (2020 NYISC gold medal), have garnered international attention and been heralded as one of the finest rums the company has produced.
Bacardi - Puerto Rico
The Bacardi brand was founded on February 2, 1862, by Don Facundo Bacardí Massó in Santiago de Cuba. Evolving with the times, the company adapted during the Spanish American War, Prohibition, and their exile from Cuba, showing a savviness and resiliency that have made them the global brand they are today. With a portfolio full of flavored and aged expressions, it is no surprise that the company is producing award winning rums such as Bacardi Gran Reserva Diez, New York International Spirit Competition (NYISC) 2019 and 2021 gold winners, Bacardi 16 Year Gran Reserva Especial, NYISC 2022 double gold winner, and Bacardi Gold, NYISC 2020 silver medal winner.
Brugal - Dominican Republic
Don Andrés Brugal Montaner learned how to craft and produce rum while living as a young man in Santiago de Cuba. He relocated from Cuba to Puerto Plata, Dominican Republic, and established Brugal & Co. in 1888. The company has been producing rum for over 130 years, with five Maestro Roneros guiding the production of the company’s products. Brugal ages its column still rum in used American White Oak Bourbon barrels and may use finishes from other spirits to create their unique line of products. One of their most popular expressions is Brugal 1888, which earned a gold medal at the 2021 NYISC. This rum is double distilled and then aged in the traditional used bourbon barrels, but it is also aged in used sherry casks, giving it a unique flavor profile.
Ron Carta Viejo -Panama
Established in 1915, the Hacienda Carta Viejo is in the southwest region of Panama, close to the town of David. Here they produce their rums using a modern five column still composed of both copper and steel. One of the key ways this company differentiates itself from other rums of the region is that they age their rum blend in used American white oak Bourbon barrels and French Limousin oak barrels. Their unique flavor profile and technique earned their Carta Vieja Anejo Double Cask a gold medal at NYISC in 2022.
Havana Club – Cuba & Puerto Rico
In 1878, the Arechabala family established their distillery in Cardenas, Cuba, and in 1934 they created the Havana Club brand. The brand was nationalized without compensation after the 1959 Cuban Revolution, and while some members of the Arechabala family were imprisoned, others were allowed to flee to Spain and the United States. Unlike Bacardi, the company did not have any manufacturing assets outside of Cuba, so it could not continue to produce the Havana Club brand. In the 1970s, the Cuban government sold its rum to other Communist countries and moved to a new distillery in Santa Cruz de Norte to expand production. After the breakup of the USSR in 1991, the company lost its primary export market. This led to a strategic partnership between Pernod Ricard and the Cuban government's Corporacion Cuba Ron in 1993, which re-entered the global market.
Due to the U.S. embargo, Cuban rums are not allowed to be sold in that market. With the success of the partnership, a new distillery has been built closer to Havana, and the company has continued to expand the Havana Club portfolio beyond the core expressions. There is ongoing trademark litigation related to the Havana Club brand in the United States, with the Bacardi Corporation releasing a version of Havana Club made in Puerto Rico that the company claims uses the original Arechabala rum recipe and techniques so consumers can experience the real Havana Club rum.