Rioja Genérico is the Fresh and Fruity Rioja
Minimally aged and full of vibrant fruit character, these wines show a whole new side to the iconic Spanish region.
Rioja harvest photo credit DOCa Rioja
In the English language, the word “generic” is often used in a pejorative way to describe something unoriginal, predictable or lacking imagination. But its Spanish equivalent is now the official term for a category of wine that’s anything but boring or interchangeable.
In Rioja, reds are traditionally labeled according to the minimum amount of aging they’ve undergone, with Crianza aged at least 2 years, Riserva 3 years, and Gran Reserva 5 years. Though modern styles have moved away from an overtly oaky character, the influence of wood is still present in aroma and flavor. But what if you are looking for something where the fruit takes center stage instead of the barrel? That’s where Rioja Genérico comes in. If you’ve never heard of it, it might just be a question of semantics.
Youthful expressions
Wine lovers may be more familiar with the term “Joven” adorning labels to describe these youthful bottles, which actually translates to “young,” but in 2019 the Rioja Consejo Regulador, the wine commission responsible for regulating the region’s wine industry, officially changed the name to Genérico. The former is still being used by some producers, though others are increasingly embracing their new moniker, so you may begin to see it popping up more on shelves and menus.
Red wine photo credit Kelsey Knight for Unsplash
According to the Consejo, while there are no specific aging requirements for Genérico wines, they are typically youthful expressions in their first or second year which retain primary freshness and fruit notes. The Genérico category also encompasses bottles that don’t quite fit into the other categories due to unconventional aging practices or innovative styles or techniques that are not certified by the control board; so it helps to do your research or rely on a savvy somm or wine store clerk to help you find your perfect bottle.
The fruitiest style of Rioja
Genérico is the fruitiest style of Rioja, according to Jose Chesa, chef and owner of Spanish restaurants Ataula, Masia, and 180 Xurros, all in Portland, Oregon. “Normally they use grapes from young vines...and bring more soft tannins, thereby becoming less aggressive and more fruit-driven.” Young reds from Rioja will be purple in the glass with hints of blue, with intense fruity aromas and subtle floral notes; the palates show flavors that match the bouquet along with balanced acidity, alcohol, and tannins.
The region of Rioja includes 600 wineries, three sub-regions (Rioja Alta, Alavesa and Oriental) and a plethora of grape varieties, so it’s not uncommon for Genérico reds to include a blend of grapes including tempranillo, garnacha tinta, graciano, mazuelo and maturana tinta. Each bottle is marked with a DOCa trust seal to certify that it has met Rioja’s strict aging and typicity requirements. Keep in mind that Genérico might not appear on the front of the label or the label at all; if you find a bottle of red with the Rioja DOCa trust seal and either just the name “Rioja” or that of a varietal (usually Tempranillo) it will be a Rioja Genérico.
No matter if you can call these reds Joven or Genérico, they are meant to be drunk within five years, Chesa says, with a bit of flexibility depending on terroir. Cooler area wines will last longer than those from warmer locations, due to the fact that sugar levels in cooler regions remain lower while acidity--which acts as a preservative--is higher.
Food friendly wines
Pizza and red wine photo credit Jordan Nix for Unsplash
If you have a propensity for sipping a red wine by itself without food yet find other categories of red Rioja to be a bit too grippy and structured, a Genérico red can be exactly what you crave. But these wallet-friendly bottles are also food-friendly. Chesa partners them with charcuterie, semi-cured cheeses, mushrooms, roasted meats, lamb and seafood stew; the style is also a perfect stand-in for Chianti on pizza or pasta night. They definitely reflect the evolving palate of wine drinkers, admits Chesa. While his father is a Rioja collector whose 3,000-bottle cellar is about 85% aged expressions and he himself prefers the deep oak notes in a well-matured red, he knows that preference is changing among wine drinkers. “The market now has a big diversity of young wines with an exceptional taste and quality offering.”
Turns out generic can actually translate to something quite special.
Bottles to try:
● Bodegas Campillo El Niño de Campillo 2019 ($18), a tempranillo-based wine aged 6 months in American oak; purple in the glass with a ruby rim, it has blackberry and black cherry aromas, black plum, and palate with pleasing tannins and a fresh finish along. Try it with ham, oily fish like tuna or cod, fried potatoes, pasta, or medium-aged cheese.
● Bodegas Classica Hacienda Lopez de Haro 2019 ($12), 100% tempranillo aged 6 months in new barrels, with a violet hue, aromas of red fruits, a matching palate, and a finish of lush, ripe tannins and vibrant acidity.
● Bodegas Valdelana Agnus de Autor 2019 ($10), made with 95% tempranillo and 5% viura to ramp up color and aromas; deep red in the glass with purple flecks, intense aromas of blackberries, raspberries, a palate that balances berry fruit with approachable tannins and a finish of red fruit. Try it with tapas, legumes, and stews.
● Bodegas Bilbaínas Vino Zaco Tempranillo 2017 ($13), cherry red in the glass, aromas of black fruit along with a violet and jasmine florality; black fruit on the palate melds with light vanilla from a short ageing in oak, and rounded tannins on the ample finish. Try it with chicken, barbecue, grilled vegetables, and young cheeses.