Professor Spotlight: Maggie Kimberl
6 questions with our Bourbon Diva
March, 2020 will mark seven years of Alcohol Professor! Though I am at the helm of this big, boozy digital ship, we wouldn’t still be here without our talented crew of educated alcohol professors, some of whom have been with us from the very beginning. It’s time we gave our readers a chance to get to know them, starting off with Louisville’s own, Maggie Kimberl! An aficionado of bourbon and American whiskey, she’s very much on the pulse of the Kentucky scene, and has recently branched out to explore other parts of the whiskey spectrum as well, including Canadian whisky.
Here she shares some insights about her “origin story”, and what inspires her, past and present, to keep chasing the bourbon dream:
Amanda Schuster: You live in the Land of Bourbon, so obviously there's an innate appreciation. When was the moment you realized you didn't want to just drink it, but write about it too?
Maggie Kimberl: I was out at Breckenridge Distillery last fall and someone referred to Founder Brian Nolt’s story as his “origin story” so now that’s how I refer to mine, as well.
My origin story began many years ago when I worked part time at the local liquor store. Those were the days when master distillers would come and sit in a store to sign bottles and few people knew who they were. Jim Rutledge of Four Roses was in my store during Derby week but it was super busy so every time I tried to talk to him, a ton of people would line up at my register. That continued for over four hours, and he started packing up to leave and I went back to the break room to enjoy my peanut butter sandwich.
The next thing I knew Jim came through the door with bottles in one hand and cups in the other. He sat with me for about 20 minutes and explained the proper bourbon tasting technique, all about Four Roses’ ten different recipes, how to pick different characteristics out of the different bottles, and more.
That was my “Aha!” moment. I knew I had to tell the whole world about this bourbon stuff, so I quit my job and started writing about whiskey.
AS: What does your ideal sip of bourbon taste like?
MK: I like the big, bold flavors of bourbon - the caramels and the spice notes and the stone fruit and the leather. But I also like a nice buttery mouthfeel and balance in the proof and flavors.
AS: Are there any bourbons that are off the market now that you wish you had more of?
I am really kicking myself for not grabbing that last bottle of Old Fitzgerald Bonded before Heaven Hill discontinued it and brought it back at an older age. There was also a Black Maple Hill about eight or nine years ago that was something special. But for the most part I know they are making more, and while it’s not always going to be the same I always look forward to trying new things.
AS: If you could attend your dream bourbon panel discussion, who past and/or present would be on it?
MK: This is a hard one because I know so many talented and amazing people and I’ve hosted and been on so many great panels. But if we’re going for anyone, I would love to hear from Margie Samuels [co-founder of Maker’s Mark] and Mary Dowling [who operated Waterfill & Frazier during Prohibition through a tricky loophole]. Women have been involved in distilling from the beginning but somehow we only know about the men. These are two women whose names have had staying power in the industry, and I would love to be able to hear from them firsthand.
AS: Please tell readers something about Kentucky that people from outside of it might not understand.
MK: There’s more here than just bourbon and horses, though we definitely love that that’s what we are known for. Louisville, in particular, is the geographic center of the Eastern seaboard. That’s why we have the UPS Worldport and all the shipping and logistics businesses that go along with it, from several Amazon fulfillment centers to Lantec, the company that makes shrink-wrap machines, and more. The reason why is that three major interstate highways converge in Louisville, but the reason why those highways all go through Louisville is also related to bourbon.
Back on the frontier days the rivers were the interstate highway. Louisville was a natural stopping point because of the Falls of the Ohio, so in order to get through, you either had to wait for rainfall and “shoot the falls” or portage around the falls, which often necessitated hiring help and staying for a few days. This is why there were warehouses that stored whiskey on the other side of the falls—sometimes the boats would break and they would salvage all they could, and other times they could buy, sell, or otherwise broker barrels of whiskey that would head on down the river.
Louisville’s location and geography have a lot to do with the development of bourbon. We also get really fresh seafood because of the WorldPort, so we have great sushi.
AS: What are some of your favorite moments from your whiskey writing career so far?
MK: I’ve met so many amazing people that I can’t express my gratitude enough that I get to be a part of this industry. I have two other favorite moments that involve Jim Rutledge in addition to my “origin story”: One was when I interviewed him about his retirement and told him that I’d quit my job to write about whiskey because of him. The shock on his face was priceless. The second was when he told me he had been distilling again and eventually I was able to break that story.
I’ve also done some amazing stories with Marianne Eaves, Lisa Wicker, Al Young, Elizabeth McCall, and several others. I’ve been able to meet so many people in this industry who are so passionate about what they do, and I love being around those kinds of people. It’s really a gift to get up every day and do what you love surrounded by people who are doing what they love.
AS: Finally, please tell us someone you've never met (past or present) who you wish you could have a drink with, and ideally, where would you want to meet them and what would you want to be drinking?
MK: I am just the worst at these kinds of questions. Can they be fictitious people? I’d love to sit down in Ten Forward with Jean Luc Picard for a cup of Earl Grey, hot. I’d also love to hang out with Mulder, Scully, and The Lone Gunmen at their place with some cheap beer. Too nerdy?
My grandmother died when I was in first grade, and it wasn’t until relatively recently, long after I’d been writing about whiskey and cocktails, that my grandfather told me she liked Old Forester Manhattans. I’d love to sit with her at the Old Forester Distillery bar and have an Old Forester Manhattan and learn more about her. I’ve met her but I didn’t know her long enough.
A real person I’ve never met? That’s a tough one. There were a lot of great people in the bourbon industry in the early days who were agents for social change and good in the world. Both Colonel Blanton and Isaac Wolfe Bernheim were well known for giving African-Americans good, stable jobs in the industry. I think it would be really interesting to learn about their experiences during that time in history. I’m simple—we can just talk in the warehouse or office. Pour me a little of whatever is open.