New American Whiskey to Try, and Old Favorites to Revisit
photo by Amanda Schuster
Reconnecting with old whiskey friends and introducing some new ones
Reacquaintance has been a theme that’s brought me comfort during the Covid-19 shutdown. As I’ve previously discussed here, I’m re-watching old favorite programs (like Cheers), I’m blowing the dust off old albums when I listen to music, and re-connecting with friends that life often made me too busy to call. Another balm is having a chance to sip, and take time to appreciate, American whiskey again. There are some excellent new releases this spring, and I’m also enjoying the opportunity to take a nip from my home bar favorites.
I so wish I could be sipping these from these bottles with friends at New York City whiskey bars like Travel Bar, Brandy Library, Fine & Rare, Noorman’s Kil, and Ward III, and others I’ve had the pleasure of visiting around the world. But at least for now, each of these fab bottles is available to order online.
Click, sip and be… well, if not merry, at least calmed.
What’s New in American Single Malt
Virginia Distillery Co. Courage and Conviction Single Malt
46% ABV, $75
The name refers to a favorite saying of VA Distillery’s late founder Dr. George G. Moore, “Have the courage of your convictions.” The inaugural batch of this whisky is matured in a combination of ex-sherry, bourbon and European red wine casks (referred to as “cuvée”). (A complete list of vitals about the whisky down to the fill dates of the casks can be found here.) This is a bright and fruity whisky, with earthy notes of roasted almonds, cashews, an undercurrent of dried fruit jamminess that CEO Gareth H. Moore attributes to the cuvée casks, which he refers to as “the special sauce” of the cask blend.
50% ABV, $100
For the inaugural release of this limited edition single malt, Westland (consistent winners in the NY International Spirits Competition) partnered with the outdoor gear co. Filson to commemorate the late 19th century gold miners who braved the elements to set up a camp and forge trade routes out of Coldfoot, Alaska. This peated malt made with WA state grain is matured in 1st fill ex-bourbon, new American oak, and Oloroso sherry butts. Can’t say what the Filson Colfoot t-shirts and hoodies taste like, but the whisky (which can be served on Coldfoot limited edition coasters) is soothing like a freshly made s’more, with chocolatey undertones, and a whiff of campfire smokiness wafting through it.
Breuckelen Distilling Brownstone Malt
50% ABV, $75
Just in time for socially distanced brownstone stoop sipping comes this Brooklyn made single malt produced from barley that was grown in NY state and malted at Valley Malt in Hadley, Massachusetts. The flavors of this spicy 6 year-old reminds me of toast slathered with good marmalade. Sip it neat, or try it in a riff on the Brooklyn cocktail: 1.5 oz Brownstone Malt, 1 oz dry vermouth, bar spoon of Maraschino liqueur such as Luxardo, bar spoon of amaro, preferably Brooklyn made such as Faccia Bruto.
What’s New in American Whiskey
122.9 proof, $70
Barrel Craft Spirits specializes in single barrel releases, with details about batch and proof hand written on each bottle. This series is a blend of American whiskey (not labeled as bourbon since it’s not initially matured in new charred oak) that has been finished in ex-rum, port and Dunn Vineyards cabernet casks. I’ve enjoyed most of the selections I’ve tasted from Barrel Craft, and fancy wine finishes are all the rage, but this one is particularly fun, reminding me of the butter rum Life Savers that were my Grandma Nina’s favorite.
What’s New in Rye
Catoctin Creek Rabble Rouser Rye
50% ABV, $115
This Virginia distillery’s Bottled-in-Bond 100% Rye is distilled at a lower proof than the flagship Roundstone Rye (also a great buy if you can’t find this one). The process captures the true essence of the grain, allowing a balanced profile of spiciness, nutiness, stone fruits and true rye cereal flavors to come through. The bottle might be tough to come by since it’s made in such limited quantities, but it’s out there in cyberspace.
Sagamore Spirit Calvados Finish Rye
101.2 proof, $70
This Maryland distillery’s straight rye has long been a favorite in my house, as well as a consistent medal winner at the NY International Spirits Competition. I was intrigued when I learned they gave it an 11 month finish in ex-Calvados casks (having already become a big fan of Affinity, a whisky and Calvados mashup from Compass Box). The grassy notes of rye match beautifully with the influence of the apple brandy cask, creating a bit of a honeysuckle aftertaste. Most people think of autumn when it comes to apples, but the fresh flavors and aromas here remind me of springtime in the Brooklyn Botanic Garden as the blossoms come out from hiding.
What’s New in Bourbon
Woodford Reserve Batch Proof Bourbon
123.6 proof, $130
There have been some interesting experiments in the Woodford Reserve Master Collection Series over the years (my favorite being the Sweet Mash over a decade ago), but one style that hasn’t been released yet is a whiskey at full barrel proof (most Woodford whiskeys are at 90.4). Master Distiller Chris Morris told me in a recent Skype interview that over the years, visitors to the distillery had been selecting their own two-barrel blends drawn from full strength barrels, which were then brought down to 90.4 proof. Yet they had repeatedly remarked how much they enjoyed tasting Woodford at full strength. With so many calls for higher proof bourbon, Morris says he finally gave in, but had to be very meticulous about choosing the right combination of whiskeys to blend. “I have been tasting samples from barrels for 23 and some years, and I have never tasted a single barrel of Woodford Reserve that tastes like Woodford Reserve… it’s all about creating the right batch from a diversity of barrels.” Nailed it!
Perennial favorites to try or revisit
Elijah Craig Small Batch Straight Rye (94 proof, $30), which made its debut last fall, tastes so much like actual rye bread, I think I’m going to have to order some pastrami from Shelsky’s to pair with it.
Old Overholt Rye now features Old Abe back to his grumpy self on the label, and the proof bumped up to 86, and only $18!
NY Distilling Co. Ragtime Rye Bottled-in-Bond (100 proof, $50) makes me nostalgic for the distillery’s adjacent bar, the Shanty, but will mix cocktails with it until it can open again.
Knob Creek 12 Year Straight Bourbon (100 proof, $60) now a permanent part of the portfolio, joining the flagship Straight Bourbon (100 proof, $35), which now carries a 9 year age statement.
Balcones Texas Pot Still Straight Bourbon (46% ABV, $35), which is seriously one of the best sipping bargains out there, but also a terrific Old Fashioned base.
High West American Prairie Bourbon (46% ABV, $40), a a delicious sipper consisting of a blend of bourbons aged 2 to 13 years, with 10% of proceeds benefitting the American Prairie Reserve.
Jefferson’s Ocean Aged At Sea (40% ABV, $85): since I can’t travel the world right now, at least I can sip a bourbon that has, and also supports shark research.
Buffalo Trace Kentucky Straight Bourbon (45% ABV, $35) is a go-to for summer highballs and smashes. Yes, of course I adore Weller Antique 107, but it’s worth tasting the old standby again.
J. Rieger Kansas City Whiskey (46% ABV, $40), mmmmmm sherry cask….
Uncle Nearest 1856 Tennessee Whiskey (100 proof, $60) and George Dickel Bottled-in-Bond (100 proof, $40) remind me there really is good quality Tennessee whiskey out there.
Michter’s US*1 American Whiskey (41.7% ABV, $48) was my gateway American whiskey, and I still love it.
Four Roses Select Small Batch Bourbon (52% ABV, $60): nothing like it with a big cube and an orange twist—no sugar, no bitters—as a nightcap.
And… 8-Ball Chocolate Flavored Whiskey (35% ABV, $30): No. I’m serious. Just try it. It’s actually really good. And if you’re not sipping a whiskey that tastes like good bourbon over chocolate gelato, and mixing it with a little amaro for a chocolate Old Fashioned, you’re not taking advantage of life’s simple pleasures.