Has a Necessary and Optimistic Renaissance of Bordeaux Wine Arrived?

Producers in Bordeaux are growing their vineyard repertoire with six new grapes authorized by the Institut National l’Origine et de la Qualiteé, a decision that stems from a necessity to confront climate change in the area. The new bunch consists of four homegrown French grapes and two Iberian and can start being planted this year in the Bordeaux Superiéur and Bordeaux Appellations d’Orgine Contrôlée - with others soon to follow.  

 In 2018, at the start of the formal legislation, the INAO allowed opponents two months to convey their contention but received an overwhelming eagerness to institute the change that led to a wave of optimism to preserve the Bordeaux taste and anticipate its future. “The introduction of these varieties is very exciting. It is, however, important to keep in mind the objective that is sought after which could be summarized as: contribute to preserve the characteristics of Bordeaux wines in the light of climate change. Obviously, we are looking for balance, freshness, elegance, harmony, good acidity, resistance to heat and drought,” says Allan Sichel, vice president of Conseil Interprofessionnel du Vin de Bordeaux .

The New Grapes 

touriga nacional

Research on including new grapes in Bordeaux wines was conducted over 10 years by the French National Institute of Agronomic Research. Fifty-two varieties were intensely studied with the four reds touriga nacional, arinarnoa, marselan, castets, and the two whites alvarinho and liliorila making it to the final approval. The extensive testing was imperative to protect the famous wine-making region’s future, which has been recently flirting with feverishly high temperatures.  

the Weather 

Pressed up against the southwest Atlantic Coast of France, Bordeaux weather is typically known for a balance of sunshine, clouds, and healthy rainfall - averaging 40 inches annually. The average regional temperature hovers around 55℉, with July having the warmest temps nearing 80℉. Over the last 20 years, summer heatwaves have been frequent and have even caused the harvest to start 15 days earlier than usual.  

In July 2019, the Bordelais saw the thermometer soar over 100℉ smashing a record set in 2003 for similar temperatures. Again in September 2020, Bordeaux saw the heat rise to an above-average number of 95℉. July to September is essential to the vine’s life cycle as the fruit morphs from fruit set into veraison, which is one of the final steps before harvest. In addition, more vineyard management techniques have been enacted including, night harvesting, reducing plant density, and no longer thinning out leaves at summer’s end to protect the vulnerable vitis fruit from the intense rays.  Moreover, the summer scorchers can also derail sought-after flavors and increase the alcohol content to an undesirable level.

The Evolution of Bordeaux Blends 

Bordeaux, with its nearly 275,000 acres of vineyards and 60-plus AOCs, is perhaps the most influential and productive wine-growing region in France. In 2018, 680 million bottles were produced that include some of the most esteemed or expensive bottles in existence. Many different styles of wine are produced here including sparkling, sweet, rosé, and whites, which are typically blends of semillon and sauvignon blanc (among others). Nearly 50 years ago, Bordeaux produced more dry whites than reds. However today, most production is red - about 84% in 2018. 

Among many alluring attributes, the six new grapes proved they can handle the stress of increased heat while still preserving their aromatics, which are very similar to Bordeaux’s existing profiles. The new additions can only take up 5% of a planted vineyard area, are not allowed on labels, and cannot comprise more than 10% of the final blend - of any color wine. The fruit may start being harvested three years after being planted. Furthermore, the new grapes are authorized for use in France, but inclusion in an AOC blend depends on the AOC’s specific rules.  

Blending became an art form in Bordeaux to insure and adjust to grapes’ ripening schedules. Today, red wines are mainly based on cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc, and occasionally include petit verdot and others in small doses. Interestingly enough, the late-ripening petit verdot is benefitting from climate change where plantings increased nearly 200% in 2018, according to the Bordeaux Wine Council.  Furthermore, carmenere and malbec were gradually phased out (although a small percentage remained) in the mid-to-late 20th century due to late ripening and subsequently found success in warmer climates. But now, they are seeing a renaissance in Bordeaux. These increased plantings further prove how the Bordeaux style reshapes with its generations.  

“Winegrowers are changing their approaches and their wines are evolving as a result. Bordeaux wines of the 2020s are more supple, more fruity, and less tannic. The share of Petit Verdot, Carménère, and Malbec has increased, and we produce more and more single grape variety cuvées. Each generation shapes its wines and adapts to its time,” says Bernard Farges, President of the Conseil Interprofessionnel du Vin de Bordeaux

The Iberian Grapes  

Jose Luis Moureira da Silva

The two Iberian grapes now included, the zippy white alvarinho (albariño in Spain), and the seductive red touriga nacional have some Portuguese winemakers flattered about the duo’s inclusion in Bordeaux. As well as the Bordelais, the Portuguese are also expert blenders with an arsenal of native grapes at their disposal.

Jose Luis Moureira da Silva winemaker for Quinta do Ameal and Quinta dos Murças which are both parts of the larger Esporão group, says that alvarinho and touriga nacional are two “first-rate examples” of Portugal’s many native grape varieties and the decision to add them into the Bordeaux mix is clear. 

“As a Portuguese winemaker working exclusively with traditional Portuguese grape varieties, I couldn’t be more proud to see our traditional grapes recognized by a world-famous region like Bordeaux,” says Moureira da Silva says. “When it comes to climate change, it makes perfect sense to look for grape varieties that display heightened resistance to extreme heat and dryness, and produce good results.” 

Domingos Soares Franco

Domingos Soares Franco, the senior winemaker of one of the oldest still wine producers in Portugal,  Jose Maria de Fonseca, is excited about now being able to return the favor to the French. “The Portuguese wine-making community has been working with French grapes for years, so we don’t have a problem with the French using our grapes! It will be good exposure for the 250+ Portuguese varietals to showcase what they can do outside of Portugal,” says Soares Franco.  Soares Franco continues that touriga nacional will add new and exciting aromas to the Bordeaux blends and alvarinho will “influence tremendously the acidity in the wine.”

The French Grapes 

And as for the remaining French grapes, marselan, lilorila, castets, and arinarnoa, they will continue to add complexity, freshness, aromatics, distinctive structure, and age-ability to the already successful Bordeaux formula. Even more importantly, some of the Bordeaux freshman class are less inclined to be damaged by other elements that plague Bordeaux region such as mildew, grey rot, and pests.