From Behind the Bar: Bernadette James of Stages

Bernadette James is a New Hampshire native who has been working in restaurants since she was 15 years old. She has a master’s degree in creative writing but channels her creativity into crafting unforgettable experiences for guests. She is also a Certified Sommelier with the Court of Master Sommeliers. She began working at Stages and The Living Room in May 2021 where she enjoys creating cocktails and mocktails that feature fresh, local ingredients, as well as concocting all of her own liqueurs. She particularly appreciates working in a smaller, high-end space that allows for the time to put into specialized beverages.

How would you describe your bar?

I would describe my bar as unique. Stages takes the layout of most restaurants and turns it on its head - the kitchen is open, and guests sit at the kitchen countertop, watching Chef cook and interacting with him for the entire meal. My bar is hidden; It is in its own room where the guests may walk by, but there is no bartop for them to sit at, and I create in a space that is solely my own. I find that in this way, I’m able to focus on my creativity and take my time with each and every drink that I serve.

My bar focuses on simplicity and seasonal, fresh ingredients. The majority of my bar I create from fresh produce. I make 95% of the liqueurs, juices, and syrups that go into my drinks. When it comes to my craft cocktails, I focus on subtlety and balance. For example, if one of my drinks has jalapeño in it, it will not blow your lips off with spice. I like to use ingredients that complement each other and create a balanced, refreshing drink.

What drink have you added to the menu recently?

The Golden Child

2 ounces Tito’s Vodka

1 ounce golden beet simple syrup (1:2 sugar:water infused with raw golden beets)

2 ounces fresh squeezed grapefruit juice

5-6 tarragon leaves

Shake and double strain into a Martini glass.

How do you stay up to date with current drink trends?

While I do enjoy getting inspiration from the current drink trends by regularly reading Punch and browsing trending cocktails on Instagram, I prefer to create cocktails that are spins on the classics. For example, I currently have a cocktail on my menu called an 1862 Old-Fashioned that uses gin instead of whiskey. While doing some research on Jerry Thomas, the father of American mixology, I found out that he published a Bartenders’ Guide in 1862 that included one of the first instances of an “Old-Fashioned” drink recipe and the base alcohol was gin. I have found that with our guests, the desire for a delicious drink far outweighs the desire for a current drink trend.

Which new (or new to you) spirits brand have you been using lately and why?

One of my spirit brands that I love as a consumer and just recently brought into my bar is Roku Gin. It’s a Japanese gin that only uses 6 botanicals, including yuzu lemon and cherry blossoms. I find that it is crisp and lightly floral on its own, while also lending some subtle citrus flavors when mixed into a cocktail. It truly is my favorite gin to use in a craft cocktail.

What drinks are most popular at your bar lately?

Lately, the most popular drink at my bar has been the Omakase. It’s especially popular with my regulars, and also a fun adventure for new guests. I have also found that gin has been a lot more popular as of late, compared to say to ever-loved vodka and/or bourbon. There are just such a huge selection of gins out there now, all with such different botanicals, flavors, and bodies.

What’s the Omakase cocktail (and mocktail) all about? Is there just one or do you customize it?

The Omakase drinks was an idea I had after working here for about a year. I’ve worked at half a dozen bars before this and probably the most common question I receive is “I don’t know what I want to drink, can you make me something? What’s your favorite drink to make?” And here at Stages, I was hearing a lot of guests say that they enjoyed coming in for the tasting menu and it was so lovely to not have to make any decisions, to leave everything up to us. And I figured that I could include a “Chef’s Choice” option on the drink list as well, something that mirrored the tasting menu in the kitchen, one drink at a time.

When I originally came up with the idea, I assumed that the Omakase would be one or two set drinks every weekend. However, after 20 years in the industry, I realized that I was assessing the guests ordering the Omakase and trying to guess what kind of drink I would imagine they enjoyed. So now, after having been on the menu for over a year, when a guest orders the Omakase, I create a drink on the spot especially for them. I have a number of fresh produce and concoctions brewing at all times that aren’t on the current menu that I can play around with for these drinks. As a bartender, I find it to be an amazingly fun challenge and the guests enjoy it quite a bit, it is probably the most ordered drink on the menu.

Who’s your favorite bartender mentor and why?

I am very inspired by Christiaan Röllich, an L.A. based bartender from the Netherlands. His book, Bar Chef, is one I reference fairly regularly for ideas. So far, he’s the only bartender I’ve found who has almost the same approach to cocktail creation as I do. He uses a lot of fresh and seasonal produce, makes many of his own liqueurs and bitters, and takes great care with the alcohols and flavorings that he puts into his drinks.

What are some of your favorite bottles of wine for pairing with the food at Stages?

I love Steinininger Grüner Veltliner from Austria. It’s a wine I love to introduce guests to, and I find that the savory green flavors and acidity pair well with many of Chef Evan Hennessey’s herb and vegetable-forward dishes. I also love Cà dei Frati Lugana from Italy, it’s medium body with minerality and acidity pairs perfectly with any seafood dishes we may have on the menu. For reds, I love Cloudline Pinot Noir, it’s a lovely light Pinot that’s perfectly balanced with fruit and earth flavors. I enjoy surprising guests by pairing this red with a heavier seafood dish. I also love Chateau Musar Jeune Rouge from Lebanon, it’s a hearty blend of Syrah, Cinsault, and Cabernet Sauvignon that is my favorite to use as the pièce de resistance of the meal. And my final favorite I’ve use to finish every wine pairing for over a year now is the Broadbent Rainwater Madeira from Portugal. It is light, nutty, with light caramel notes that pairs perfectly with dessert.

How often does your cocktail menu change?

I change my cocktail menu about twice every season based on what produce I can get in. I very, very rarely change the entire menu all at once. My drink menu has always included 7 cocktails and 7 mocktails, and the most I will change is 3 or 4 of each at once.

What’s your after-work drink?

Throughout my bartending career, I’ve always gone for gin for an after-work drink, either in a dirty martini or a gin and soda with olives, and my favorite gin for both of these drinks is Roku gin.

In the past few years though, I’ve been reaching mainly for non-alcoholic beverages after work. One of my favorites is a non-alcoholic margarita flip - I like to use lemon and/or lime juices, parsley or a few fresh berries, a little bit of simple syrup, a splash of coconut water, and a whole egg - shaken and poured into a glass on ice.

What cocktail or spirits book have you read recently?

Wild Drinks and Cocktails by Emily Han. There are some lovely cocktails in this book, but I mostly enjoyed all of her recipes for squashes, shrubs, tonics, and infusions, which all feature fresh herbs and produce and can all be used for both cocktail and non-alcoholic beverages. I love a concoction that I can use for both a cocktail and a mocktail.

Any techniques that you’ve been experimenting with?

I’m currently in the midst of delving deep into exactly the best way to infuse something, be it alcoholic or non-alcoholic. Is it a cold infusion, or a room temperature infusion? Using a blender, or heating on the stove, or using a sous-vide? Using blanched produce or raw? And length of time is its own beast of a question altogether - how long to infuse, which is purely dependent on method, and how long does an infusion last?

What jigger do you use and why?

I am and will always be faithful to my Piña Barware Slim Stainless Steel 2oz jigger. It’s so ergonomic, doesn’t have lips on its edges, and its measurements are very distinct.

From Behind the Bar with Bernadette James of Stages

The Golden Child