Standout Sparkling Wines of the Finger Lakes Region

Though rieslings have long been considered the modern day apogee of Finger Lakes winemaking, sparkling wines are increasingly in demand – and making an impression – just in time for the holidays.

The largest producing wine region in New York State, the Finger Lakes American Viticultural Area (AVA) encompasses 11,000 acres with diverse soil and enviable topography marked by glacially-designed lakes and steep hillsides. Together, they combine to create idyllic drainage conditions for growing grape varieties. Unsurprisingly, riesling, gewürztraminer, and cabernet franc thrive here.

Climate & Terroir

Vineyard harvest — Harvest 2021 ©Stu Gallagher Photography

“What makes the Finger Lakes unique is that the climate is very conducive for making great wines from these grapes. The lakes in this area are very deep; they never freeze, and so you have a deep water, climate-moderating influence of these lakes,” explains Bruce Murray, owner of Boundary Breaks Winery perched on the east side of Seneca Lake, the largest of the 11 Finger Lakes. Cool climates, he explains, are exemplary for sparkling wine as the grapes used in these regions typically have significant acidity (and low sugar content). “Acidity gives sparkling wines a kind of cleansing character,” Murray explains, “and that leads you to have really nice, refreshing sparkling wine.”

The first recorded winemaking in the Finger Lakes took place in the lakeside hamlet of Hammondsport in Steuben County in 1829, but commercial viticulture started 33 years later. By the late 1800s, it was sparkling wine that put the region on the map. “There were sparkling lines coming out of the Finger Lakes region that were winning contests in Europe and in the United States,” says Murray. “So there’s a long history of this region being known for making sparkling wines.”

Though thousands of miles away, the region’s geographical latitude mirrors the cool climate and terroir of the best known European growing regions, including Germany’s Rhine region and the Alsace region of France. But the bond is more than simply geographical.

History of Sparkling Wine in the Finger Lakes

Finger Lakes Vineyards — Vineyards credit SLWT

In the early 1930s, Charles Fournier from Champagne, France – also a cool climate region – arrived in the Finger Lakes with not just a talent for winemaking, but an enviable pedigree to boot. Prior to landing in upstate New York, Fournier was chief winemaker at the Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin in his native France, a skill he inherited under the tutelage of his uncle, whom he succeeded at the globally lauded Champagne house in Reims. He introduced French American hybrids to the Finger Lakes the year after Prohibition and would go on to become one of America’s leading wine makers.

Finger Lakes Sparkling Wines Today

This historic site of Lakewood Farm, perched on the west side of Seneca Lake, boasts east-facing slopes leading down to the shoreline. The Stamp family has been growing grapes there since the 1950s and making its own wine for the past 35 years. Today, their farm encompasses 80 vineyard acres producing 25 fruit-forward wines including three sparkling with a new blanc de blanc debuting next year. Liz Stamp, a partner and manager at the winery, praises the unique terroir of the Finger Lakes for its idyllic winemaking conditions. Warm sunny days and cool nights render expressive fruit, she says, which works nicely with different styles of bubbly wines. “Even when they’ve aged and have some of those beautiful notes that classic sparklers get,” Stamp adds.

While she says she has seen an increased market demand for sparkling wine, an education factor has come along with it. “I think it’s just a hard segment to break into because everyone knows Champagne,” notes Stamp, explaining that some people can mistakenly think anything that’s not champagne is ‘less than.’ Lakewood Farm’s sparkling, she says, ranges from “very sophisticated” to just plain fun. She also points to the diversity of sparkling wines in the Finger Lakes. “[They] run the gamut; there’s reds and pinks, there’s white – there’s all sorts of those out here,” adds Stamp.

Both nationally and internationally, the bubbly wine category has experienced exceptional growth, with forecasts showing those numbers to continue to rise. The number of Americans enjoying sparkling wine rose by 30% between 2019 and 2022, according to the International Wine and Spirits Research (IWSR), which tracks the global beverage alcohol market. Bruce Murray of Boundary Breaks Winery can attest to that success.

“I really do think sparkling is having a moment, and you know, I think it’s partly because you have a whole generation of younger beverage drinkers who’ve grown up on carbonated drinks,” suggests Murray. “When it comes to wines with some carbonation in them, it’s just a natural thing. It’s very familiar to them, and so, right now we are definitely seeing a real uptick in demand for sparkling wines.”

4 Finger Lakes Sparkling Wines To Try

Here are Finger Lakes sparkling wines from Seneca and Keuka Lakes in the southern part of the region not only ideal for the upcoming holiday season, but anytime:

Lakewood Bubbly Candeo

This sparkling wine made from 100% cayuga white boasts notes akin to a delicate Prosecco. Plus, it comes in at only 10.15% ABV and is an incredible value. Crisp, clean, and fruity, the wine also comes in a can for easy transport or if you fancy just one serving. ($14-$18 a bottle)

Boundary Breaks Riesling Bubbly Dry #356

Crisp, bright, and refreshing, this takes the already extraordinary “pairability”of Riesling and elevates it with sparkling character. A universal palate pleaser, this bubbly is a great hostess gift. ($19.95)

Living Roots Session Sparkling White NV

With a naturally low 8% ABV, this sparkling is easy-drinking and full of juicy white peach, yellow apple, and golden pear characteristics. A great choice as an aperitif or to pop a cork in celebration of fall’s arrival and at holiday gatherings! ($22)

Dr. Konstantin Frank Célèbre Rosé NV

A blend of classically Champagne grapes (hand-harvested Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Pinot Meunier) from the vineyards on Keuka Lake, Dr. Frank’s sparkling rosé expresses notes of ripe strawberry, passion fruit, and pineapple and is made in the same method as champagne with nearly half the cost. At 11.2% ABV – a sweet spot for the region – its high acidity balances the sweetness and makes it a crowd pleaser on the holiday dinner table. ($24.99)