Field Trips: South Africa’s Western Cape
A nourishing experience for the mind and palate
all photos by Andrew McFetridge
Just a hop, skip, and a day’s worth of travel from the US lies South Africa’s wine and foodie epicenter—The Western Cape. Situated around the tourist hub of Cape Town and its dramatic mountain ranges, the ruggedly handsome vineyards and resulting wine paired with locally loved braai offer an indescribable once-in-a-lifetime experience.
Constantia
Braais-n-Wine
South Africa is a mosaic of cultures, landscapes, languages and boasts a culinary kaleidoscope that staunchly confirms that variety is the spice of life. The vibrant blend of tradition and lifestyle define a harmonious modern era of the South African way of life, culminating on the plate and in the wine glass.
The wine styles of South Africa create a pleasant parallel between classic and modern from well-known grapes like chenin blanc and South Africa’s own pinotage to forgotten grapes like tinta barroca. Styles of these wine run the gamut from quaffable fruity reds to herbaceous wines from old vines, luxurious dessert wines, and the refined sparkler Method Cap Classique. South Africa has something for every pocketbook and palate.
South Africa is divided into six larger geographical units: Limpopo, Kwazulu-Natal, Free State, Northern Cape, Eastern Cape, and Western Cape. Generally, within those larger units are smaller, more defined boundaries that descend in size from region to district to ward.
The fermented grape juice is made all over the country but the majority of winemaking stems from the regions, districts, and wards of The Western Cape, with the most well-known expanses of the Winelands inside The Coastal Region.
Along with the copious amounts of stellar local wine, South Africans love a hearty meal and have no qualms about it. Braai (BBQ), a staple of the local culture and somewhat of an art form to some, is a gathering of friends old and new around an open flame while charring everything and anything. Laughter, smiles, and maybe some inappropriate stories are in attendance and can be heard echoing through the valleys. Meat and any sort of meat —from ostrich to boerewors and biltong are the stars of the beloved braai with vegetables being an afterthought.
While visiting The Western Cape, let yourself be enchanted by your surroundings as they tell you their story. As wine styles, languages and the braai experience change slightly from region to region one thing stays the same: your surroundings are always nourishing, either for the stomach or the heart.
Regions to explore in The Western Cape
Cape Peninsula
Cape Town
When visiting the Western Cape, you’ll most likely fly into Cape Town. The “city bowl” lays at the foot of Table Mountain, a plateau created over millennia from a mixed bag of rock formations and erosion. The weather is unpredictable here and overcast and rain (thankfully better since the drought) can creep in at any moment. Should you hike or take the cable cars to the peak, a glass of the local wine is much needed afterward. The beloved Publik Wine Bar is a hotbed for winos, foodies, and locals. The atmosphere is pleasant and approachable with exceptional values on wine. You may be tempted to try a dry, sweet, or sparkling wine from just over the mountain in Constantia, the famous vineyard that is the home of some of the first vines planted by Dutch explorers in South Africa.
Stellenbosch
Just a short drive from Cape Town are the scenic villages Stellenbosch and Franschhoek and their surrounding vineyards. Vines young and old are the David to the Goliath of the region’s robust mountain backdrops. The center of the South African wine industry is located in Stellenbosch. Stellenbosch University has the only educational program in South Africa dedicated to oenology. Being a college town there is no shortage of bars and restaurants—including the meat-heavy menu (of course) of The Fat Butcher and Craft Wheat and Hops—a bar dedicated to South African beer and gin. Franschhoek meaning “The French Corner” in Afrikaans was the place where early French immigrants made their home. The influence is evident in the whimsical wine estates like La Motte. In addition to the tasting room, the estate is complete with an art gallery, rose garden, and gift shop.
Cape South Coast
If you are ever curious about what living in a painting would be like, plan a visit to Cape South Coast. Hermanus, a whale watchers paradise, and the surrounding Hemel-en-Aarde Valley appear as if Van Gogh himself coated the canvas. The Burgundian varietals chardonnay and pinot noir thrive here by a moderate climate mitigated by the cool ocean breezes.
The apple orchards of Elgin remind us that this isn’t just a wine country and that many agricultural products are produced here. South African cider is on the up-and-up, especially with quality-minded producers Paul Cluver and Bruce Jack (producers of Cluver & Jack) at the wheel. Cluver also makes some of the best wines in the area, including a sinfully lip-smacking dry riesling, which is served alongside the decadent menu at the Cluver family restaurant, Salt.
Wines to try:
Ken Forrester FMC Chenin Blanc 2015 - Stellenbosch ($50)
Mr. Forrester (a.k.a. “Mr. Chenin”) and his wife purchased this historic estate and vineyard in 1993. Since then, Ken has pioneered the resurgence of South African chenin blanc from his old vine vineyards that date back to the 1970s. The remarkable 2015 vintage was hand-harvested from low-yielding old bush vines. Brioche and honey-soaked apricots whisper their stories of yesteryear, promising that you haven’t seen (or tasted) the last of these old vines.
Fleur Du Cap Chardonnay 2016 - Coastal Region ($10)
Fleur du Cap wines debuted in the late 1960s and have been quality-minded since its inception. Grapes are carefully selected from exemplary vineyards and the resulting wines are made in a modern style. Tropical and orchard fruits dominate this wine with vanilla and cinnamon spice playing supporting roles. Fleur Du Cap was a favorite at the 2018 New York International Wine Competition where it won South Africa Chardonnay of the Year.
Douglas Green Pinotage 2018 - Wellington ($17)
Table Mountain
Douglas Green is a name that resounds highly with South African wine. The brand was started in the mid-20th century and continues to be a cornerstone of progressiveness and fair trade today. The brand’s bottling of the born-and-bred South African grape pinotage is the perfect companion for your Sunday braai, with its silky tannins and red and black fruit. For two consecutive years, Douglas Green Wines took home the award for the South African Winery of the Year in 2014 and 2015 at the New York International Wine Competition.
Flotsam & Jetsam Stalwart Cinsault 2017 - Western Cape ($24)
Uncomplicated and fun sums up Chris and Suzaan Alheit and their wines. Made as the ultimate food-friendliness wine, this old vine cinsault is just as much easily sippable as it is complex. The average age of 240-year-old cinsault vines in this wine yield a romantically light, approachable product. It’s a page-turner.
Storm Pinot Vrede Pinot Noir 2015 - Hemel-en-Aarde ($50)
Get ready to be taken, well, by storm. The finesse and elegance of this rouge would have some thinking Burgundy in a blind tasting. Hannes Storm created his own label in 2008 after working over 10 vintages in the Hemel-en-Aarde. The first vintage of Storm’s wines in 2012 was well-received and now, Storm is the only winemaker to produce pinot noir in all the wards of Hemel-en-Aarde. Opulent, red-fruited, transcendent. The most pleasurable hurricane your palate ever met.