Drinking in the UK during the COVID-19 Crisis
How UK liquor stores and bars are managing the unprecedented uptick in home drinking during COVID-19
Fistfights over toilet paper in supermarkets, bulk-buying bars of soap and stockpiling 17,000 bottles of hand sanitizer; the spread of COVID-19 seems to have created panic around the world and inspired some unusual shopping habits. In London, supermarket shelves are being emptied of rice, painkillers and long-lasting food staples—but what are people planning on drinking?
Though at press time there has been no mandate to close pubs, most are choosing to do so for the benefit of health and safety. We got in touch with alcohol retailers and nightlife operators around the UK to find out how the British public are adapting to the closure of their local pubs, and how to prepare for any impending pandemic or apocalypse.
First, stock up on the necessities
With people getting ready for self-isolation, buying in bulk is certainly the most obvious, and popular, option for those who are worried about being stuck indoors. “The weekend was manic”, explains one of the wine advisers at Laithwaite’s Wines in Nottingham. “It’s been all about cases of wine here, multiples of 12 and so on. I guess it’s just bulk purchasing at the moment.” However, in west London, independent wine merchants Philglas & Swiggot have seen more of a steady increase, with some people stocking up on cases but others just getting a couple more bottles than they usually would. “Sure, there is a certain increase in people looking for volume”, their sales advisor confirms, “but also those who are just looking for the usual bottles that bring them joy.”
On the beer front, there’s an added level of uncertainty as craft beer fans are worried their favorite breweries may halt production for the health and safety of its staff and customers. Oscar at Clapton Craft recommends grabbing the more obscure cans while they’re still available, as cult-status brews are in high demand at the moment. “We’ve had people coming in all day saying, ‘wow, you still have Pressure Drop? They’re sold out everywhere’, so I guess that’s something to look out for!”
Meanwhile, at The Whisky Exchange on Great Portland Street, one customer opted for two bottles of rye whiskey, three bottles of sweet vermouth and a jar of cherries. We’d like to think that somewhere in London, there’s a steady stream of emergency Manhattans being made.
Avoid the crowds, choose delivery
With most people urged to stay indoors and the majority of bars and restaurants shutting their doors, delivery services are working around the clock. Online orders already come as standard for many small alcohol merchants, most of which rely on third-party couriers like Deliveroo. For those who want the pleasure of drinking without actually having to socialize with potentially infected humans, it’s a winning combination. Orders of wine have surged at Amathus in Soho, while Clapton Craft has noticed a steady increase in deliveries for several weeks.
And it’s not just shops taking advantage of isolation. Facing the closure of their bars, some bartenders are offering fresh cocktails delivered straight to their customers. This service has only previously been possible for bars that hold a special license, but, following an example set in the US, after the government relaxed licensing laws earlier this week, many more are signing up for courier services to ship their drinks further. Social media is the popular way to get the word out, with orders taken online, over delivery apps, or simply via email.
So how to make sure the drinks stay fresh? The Sun Tavern in Bethnal Green has solved the problem by offering a simple ‘Quarantini Kit’: two bottled cocktails, with four serves in each bottle, delivered anywhere within three miles of the bar. The limited menu includes a Negroni, Boulevardier and Old Fashioned, all shelf-stable options that can be sipped slowly. At the Natural Philosopher, a neighborhood cocktail bar in nearby Cambridge Heath, bar owner (and Alcohol Professor contributor) Josh Powell is offering to batch and deliver drinks, ice and finishing instructions for his customers to mix at home. The menu covers a wide range of classics—with the option to make special requests—and each cocktail is delivered by Josh himself. “No way I’m stopping doing what I love”, he explains. “Onwards and upwards.”
Keep it sensible
In case it wasn’t already obvious, it’s not recommended you produce DIY hand sanitizer from whatever you find in your local liquor store. “A lot of people have suddenly come in asking for really high-proof neutral spirits. Of course, we don’t tend to stock that, but other shops around here have sold out”, says Sam at Amathus. “We have sold quite a few of our overproof rums, but I hope it’s not for making Wray & Nephew sanitizer or anything like that.” Luckily, as they are doing in the US, a few UK-based distilleries are beginning to produce proper hand sanitizers, and these products are intended to service those who most need them first.
Pressed for a recommendation, Sam mainly suggests that people use their alcohol for drinking—responsibly, of course—rather than anything else. “Don’t go crazy. Just go home, cook a hearty meal, open a nice bottle of Rioja and relax.”
Focus on what’s important
While everyone is facing isolation, long nights at home, health concerns and economic uncertainty, drinking at home is an obvious way to find comfort. But isn’t panic buying alcohol instead of essentials like food taking things too far? At Royal Mile Whiskies, their sales representative recommends not changing your habits for the worse and choosing just one really decent bottle if you’re going to be holed up. “Keep it simple, stick to something you know that you will enjoy and can take time over.”
So what in particular should we look out for? There’s a pause, and a poignant response:
“Most of all, look after your family and friends. Nothing else is really essential.”