The Unique Challenges and Opportunities of Making Wine in China

Editor’s note: When we asked Émilie Steckenborn, of the leading drink and food podcast, Bottled in China to tell us more about wine production in China and she suggested an interview with Denise Cosentino, the Technical Manager of Château Lafite, Domaine de Long Dai, one of the top wineries in China. Cosentino has over six years of experience living and working in China and is not just very knowledgeable about Chinese wineries in the Shandong region (which accounts for more than 60% of the country’s wine production) but also the unique challenges related to China’s wine production. 

The Shandong region has a long history of winemaking, being home to the first winery in China, Chateau Changyu, founded in 1892. The region is roughly the same size as the US state of Georgia and has a bigger population than Germany. Combine the province's relatively temperate climate, with levels of rainfall similar to France’s Bordeaux, and bustling population, and it is obvious why Shandong has become one of The Sleeping Giant's most important wine regions.

Still, Shandong is not yet world-renowned for its high-quality wines. A decade ago, China was seeking oaky, rich, full-bodied wine to mimic the styles of Bordeaux and Napa Valley. But the newly-found wine superpower is quickly developing its own identity. It can take up to forty years for high-quality wines to emerge, but Shandong has progressed far quicker than other wine regions worldwide. This is down to the Chinese government backing the industry as it creates local jobs in rural areas.

Chinese wines are still ludicrously expensive, there’s little brand recognition, and the average Chinese consumer is still largely uninformed about the wine industry. So, what does the future of winemaking in China look like? Let’s jump into it.

Denise, could you tell us how you ended up being the Technical Manager at Domaine de Long Dai in China? 

Denise Cosentino

I was doing a dual master's degree in viticulture, enology, and wine economy at Montpellier SupAgro & Bordeaux Sciences Agro in France and the University of Turin in Italy. I didn’t know wine was being produced in China, but my universities had contacts there. 

In 2014, I arrived in China to start working as a wine lecturer at Northwest Agriculture and Forestry University in Shaanxi Province. I spent two years teaching and working as a consultant for several Chinese wineries. In 2015, I was selected to take part in China’s winemaker competition in Ningxia with 47 winemakers from around the world. Afterward, I became a winemaker for Chateau Nine Peaks winery before joining the Les Domaines Barons de Rothschild (DBR/Lafite) team last year. 

 That’s incredible Denise, being an educator is not only a rare opportunity, it’s very highly respected. Have you faced any challenges being a woman working in the wine industry in China?

There are more women becoming involved in the Chinese wine industry at different levels, but there is still a lack of women working on the production side, covering technical director roles, or supervising and managing a winery’s operations. Luckily, I encountered people who valued and admired my work and didn’t face specific challenges due to being a woman. Lately, women have been climbing the ranks in education, winemaking, and leadership across China’s wine trade. 

I would also look out for these formidable Chinese female winemakers at the forefront of the industry, revolutionizing consumers’ attitudes towards Chinese wine; Emma Gao from Silver Heights, Wang Fang from Kanaan Winery, and Judy Chan from Grace Vineyard.

Could you share an overview of the Shandong region? 

Shandong is on the East coast of China and equidistant from Beijing and Shanghai. Most of the wine regions are located on the Shandong peninsula, where there are two major production areas: Penglai and Qingdao.

Spring is often dry, leading to a hot, humid summer. This is followed by a sunny and late autumn – providing the appropriate ripening conditions for grapes – and cold and dry winters. Shandong has almost the same level of rain as Bordeaux, however, the East Asian Monsoon causes rain to fall during the summer from mid-July to early August. 

The most plentiful grape variety is cabernet sauvignon, and you can also find cabernet franc, chardonnay, and Italian riesling, among others. 

What are some of the viticultural challenges producers face in Shandong?

The excessive rainfall comes in summer when the grapes are very sensitive to fungal grapevine diseases. Spring and winter can also be very dry, which puts the grapes under stress, and the only option is to irrigate them. The high vintage variation in Shandong means the region is unique and challenging; 2019 was the driest vintage to date, while in 2020 there was heavy rainfall during spring, when it’s usually dry. 

What is the style of wine in Shandong compared to Ningxia?

In Ningxia, there’s a drier climate which means young plantations need irrigation, and the winters are very cold, so the vines must be buried. As a result of the different characteristics, Shandong wines are smooth, lighter in color, and with fine tannins, like a Bordeaux St Emilion. Ningxia wines are rich, bold, and very concentrated, like Argentinian wine. 

For international consumers, the expectation may be that these wines will cost $5-10 per bottle. But they cost between $40-100. Why are Chinese wines so expensive?

Glass and Bottle photo credit Domaine de Long Dai

Vineyard management and production costs are high. For example, the Long Dai vineyard has 400 small plots with a range of grape varieties and soils. The majority of technical operations are done by hand, which is time-consuming and increases labor costs. 

Also, wine is not a traditional product for Chinese consumers; it is seen as an imported good. If a wine is priced at $10 dollars, the assumption could be that it is fake or of bad quality. Therefore, the pricing may also be part of a marketing strategy to gain credibility. 

How have you seen viticulture and winemaking change since you arrived in China?

Chinese consumers know about imported wines, but many do not realize that wine is produced in Shandong. This is changing as we’re seeing a growth in wine tourism as Shandong is close to the tourist traps of Yantai and Penglai. When I first arrived, the Chinese wineries placed more attention on winemaking than viticulture. Today, producers are focused on quality over quantity, and authentic wines with clear identities are starting to appear. Chinese wineries will continue to closely follow international brands, capitalizing on their best practices.

Can you share with us the story of Lafite and Domaine de Long Dai?

The Lafite family has always been keen to diversify and expand their know-how in regions of the world with very high winemaking potential. After their acquisitions of Los Vascos en Chile in the late 80s and Bodegas CARO in Argentina in the 90s, they came to China. 

Gérard Colin, a wine consultant, advised them about the Shandong region where the climate would allow for a production system similar to the one used in Bordeaux. Over 400 soil pits were dug to identify the best location to plant vines. The first vintage was released in 2017 and, today, the vineyard covers thirty hectares. 

Does Long Dai copy the style of Bordeaux blends? 

The aim is not to make French wine, but to make a Chinese wine with its own characteristics and style for Chinese consumers. The Long Dai blend is made from three grape varieties; cabernet sauvignon, marselan, and cabernet franc. Thirty hectares are divided into 56 plots, and each one is divided by numerous terraces. These 400 different terraces each require specific care to work out the optimum harvest date and grape maturity. The wine produced has great finesse and elegant tannins, similar to Bordeaux wine. But Long Dai is unique and complex as a result of the distinct qualities of each of these terraces, the blend of grapes, and the climate. 

Many are familiar with the Bordeaux blends like cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc, but why was marselan added?  

Marselan, a cross between cabernet sauvignon and grenache, was among the first kinds of grape planted in China, in 2011. It ripens late, has thick skins, and high resistance to fungal diseases, which means it can resist monsoon weather. Marselan will never replace cabernet sauvignon as the main variety, but it does add spice and a deeper color to the wines.

What influence has the Les Domaines Barons de Rothschild group had on winemaking in China? 

Barrel Room photo credit Richard Haughton

There is a clear influence, but everything is adapted to region, year, condition, and the quality of grapes. We have daily exchanges with the technical team in France, and the wine is made according to the traditional Bordeaux method; the fermentation starts immediately, and we carry out gentle pump over to ensure the gentle extraction of tannins. After fermentation, the wines are blended prior to aging. Most of the barrels are made by the Tonnellerie des Domaines in Pauillac. 

The vineyard was also set up in collaboration with local farmers from a nearby village, Mulangou. They are highly dedicated to the cultivation of apples, cherries, and peaches and already had a level of know-how to understand viticulture and perform tasks in the vineyard with the greatest precision and care.

The vintage 2017 and 2018 Long Dai are available in China, Canada, Hong Kong, Singapore, and the US.