From Behind the Bar with Rick Dolinksy of Paper Planes

Ricky Dolinsky is co-owner, chef and mixologist of Paper Planes. Dolinksy, along with his wife Maria, was the owner of the former Tzarevna, one of the city's most notable Russian dining destinations, which has been reimagined into a new pop-up concept called Yo+Shoku.

How would you describe Paper Planes?

Paper Planes is a speakeasy that creates craft cocktails with limitless freedom of expression. The bar is not bound to any style or cuisine and is driven by meticulous attention to the crafting of our syrups and infusions. Our drinks are often said to transport you to a different destination, be it real or imaginary. 

Why did you decide to go with a speakeasy concept? 

The speakeasy concept works wonderfully with the layout of our restaurant space. The entrance leads you through a narrow hallway that passes an open kitchen, ultimately leading up to the back garden area, where the bar is located. Therefore, you must walk through the kitchen to get to the back, feeding the speakeasy narrative wonderfully. We also love the idea that you can find a hideaway backyard garden in the middle of the most chaotic square in downtown Manhattan, escaping the frat boys and long lines that permeate the area. 

How do you stay up to date with current drink trends?

Honestly, we are fortunate enough to have the freedom to create whatever we want with support from our customers. Whenever we hear about a new trend, it is usually just from someone ordering it after seeing it on social media. In our experience, trends die almost as soon as they start, so we always try to apply a spin on something trendy to make it outlive the trend itself. Our “Midnight in Tokyo” is a great example of this; it has so much more depth and sophistication than an espresso martini while still embodying the essence of it at the same time. 

“Midnight in Tokyo” is our espresso martini made with Japanese Shochu. We use IIchiko, which is once distilled and has a layer of umami on the back, as it is distilled with koji. 

Midnight in Tokyo

Midnight in Tokyo photo credit SpotHopper

1.5 oz Iichiko shochu

1 oz coffee concentrate

.75 Trader Vic’s Kona Coffee liqueur 

.25 Trader Vic’s Chocolate liqueur 

.25 Buffalo Trace Bourbon Cream (optional)

3 espresso beans to garnish

Combine Iichiko shochu, coffee concentrate, coffe and chocolate liqueur and share with ice. Serve in a coupe, garnished with espresso beans.

Which new (or new to you) spirits brand(s) have you been using lately and why?

There are always new spirits and cordials that are brought into the bar to screw around with. Lately, although not new at all, Trader Vic’s Kona Coffee liqueur and chocolate liqueur are indispensable going into the winter season. The Kona Coffee is much more intense than other brands and conveys the flavor of Kona coffee terroir wonderfully. The chocolate has a much richer mouthfeel than the traditional creme de cacao, with a more natural flavor as well.

What’s the best thing to happen in your bar lately?

The organic growth and popularity of our bar is a truly enlightening event. As a chef, you always want to deliver your dream cuisine, which is often modified to what customers will actually want. At Paper Planes, we are creating whatever cocktail we want with no limits, and people are loving it. We are grateful for this acceptance of creativity and will promise to continue delivering and ensuring our quality of craftsmanship. 

Who’s your favorite bartender or mentor and why?

Sadly, I have always been self-taught and never had the benefit of a mentor, for better or worse. Even throughout my kitchen career, most chefs were hands off and left me to fend for myself or learn on my own. When we finally opened our own restaurant, I was left to my own experiences, as well as my love of constantly learning new things, to drive us forward. I (along with most good bartenders) love to read any bar book we can get our hands on, so it can be said that we have mentors vicariously teach us through what we read. 

How often do you customize cocktails for your guests?

Most customers do not ask to modify house cocktails. However, regulars and fans love to come in to get “dealer’s choice”. Some of our best cocktails have been invented this way, by going off the cuff and complying with wacky ideas or suggestions. 

How often does your bar menu change? 

Since we only opened in June, we have only modified the menu once. We are currently working on our winter menu. 

What drinks are most popular at your bar lately? 

The House of the Rising Sun is one of our greatest hits. We describe it as a tiki drink that puts you somewhere between Hawaii and Japan, with a small detour to Scotland. We combine Japanese whiskey, Laphraoig, lime juice, house made grenadine, orgeat, orange water and egg white to make a refreshing, fruit forward but slightly smokey and floral drink. 

What’s your after-work drink?

It depends on the day and my mood. Sometimes, you just need a shot of rye or vodka after a busy service. If I’m sending out shots for industry friends, we’re drinking amaro, Jameson, or Chartreuse. If it’s getting nippy outside, I’ll make myself a Manhattan or a Negroni. 

What cocktail or spirits book have you read recently?

I recently revisited some old classic cocktail books, such as The Waldorf Astoria Bar Book, and Jerry Thomas’s Bartenders Guide. I usually revisit classics like this once a year, to jog the memory or see if I rediscover anything. 

Any techniques that you’ve been experimenting with?

Funny enough, I’m an expert in molecular gastronomy and used to consult for chefs on the subject. It’s cool seeing new bars implement these techniques that kitchens have used for almost two decades. While we’re more focused on classically made drinks with attention to syrups and infusions, we are experimenting with fermenting modifiers and unlocking the secrets of umami in cocktails. 

What jigger do you use and why? 

Going local, we love our Leopold jiggers by Cocktail Kingdom. The vintage look and weight of it makes it practical during a busy service. We are in talks, however with some producers to help make custom jiggers for us. 

What drink makes you nostalgic and why? 

Cocktails, like good wine or spirits, can transcend time and space, evoking feelings that emotions that may or may not have ever belonged to you. I always say this to my guests, but a properly made cocktail can transport you back in time to a speakeasy in the 1920s, to a bar in Havana in the 1950s, to the Rainbow room in the 1980s. While food and ingredients often change throughout time, spirts, now more than ever, are reproduced to taste the way they always have. If you have a proper bottle of Havana club rum, you can be assured that the Daiquiri you are having now can be just as good as one drank over 70 years ago. That is the beauty of cocktails, any cocktail can take you anywhere, anytime, if you let it.