Beer Review: Stillwater Extra Dry
This American craft beer from Baltimore is a saison style with a sake-like twist
Consistently rated a Top 100 brewery in the world courtesy of numerous media outlets, Stillwater Artisanal has become sort of a master of brewing creative beers. Lots of creative beers.
From Wavvy, a double IPA with a rotational hop profile, to numerous collaboration brews, to “psychadelicate” brews such as Of Love & Regret (a saison brewed with heather, chamomile, lavender and dandelion), Stillwater Artisanal is a bit like rust in that it never seems to sleep.
French in origin, saisons (often referred to as farmhouse ales) tend to be light bodied, fruity and low in alcohol. In other words, drinkable beers that work well in warmer weather. Stillwater’s Extra Dry was one I hadn’t sampled from the progressive brewery—which was founded in Baltimore, Md., by former electronica DJ Brian Strumke (the list of beers on their website even resembles an album track listing)—but is one that has intrigued me. The term “extra dry” immediately reminded me of the cheap sake typically offered up hot in tokkuris at most any sushi bar in America.
Well, that was Stillwater’s intention. Extra Dry beer is brewed with rice and, per the brewery’s description, “designed to mimic the subtle and drinkable flavors of sake.” Even the packaging uses Japanese lettering to drive home the point. Meanwhile, on the saison side of the coin, the alcohol content is a mere 4.2% by volume.
This beer got off to a good start, pouring clean with a light, bubbly head and settling into a pleasant pale yellow color. Subtle notes of fruit lingered in the nose as the bubbles slowly dissipated. A first sip unveiled a super-crisp body with bright flavors hinting at banana and pear. A tartness trailed just behind the flavors, inching it in the direction of a classic saison, while the crisp body was almost like a spritzer or sparkling wine.
I’m no sake aficionado, but the more I got acquainted with the beer, the more it reminded me more of a classic Japanese lager like Kirin Ichiban, Sapporo or Asahi, the latter of which is marketed as a “super dry.” The differentiator, of course, is the fruit flavors and slightly more assertive malt content.
Certainly, the rice helps create that familiar dry finish like one finds in a Japanese lager, as well as sake. For my money, Stillwater Extra Dry is a winner as a great summer patio beer that lends itself to long sessions. Although saisons have never been my favorite style personally, this one pleased my palate enough that I’m looking forward to finishing my four pack. Bring on the spring weather!
Editor’s note: like craft distilleries, microbreweries such are taking a major hit with the loss of hospitality industries as a result of COVID-19. Support them when you can at this crucial time by picking up 6-packs on your grocery trips or ordering online. It’s worthwhile to check individual brewery websites to find out if they offer direct shipping to your state. To find out additional ways to support the brewing industry, please check out the Brewers Association Coronavirus Resource Center here.