A Former Bartender Shares Her Impressions of Bar Convent Brooklyn 2023

Dale DeGroff at BCB photo credit Pamela Vachon

I got to this year’s Bar Convent Brooklyn just in time to see King Cocktail, Dale DeGroff speak. Of course, I did, even as someone who’s no longer an active bartender I wouldn’t miss it. Judging from the audience capacity of the main stage on day one, during which DeGroff was featured in one of the earlier sessions, everyone else got there in time to see him speak, too. Of course, they did. When the godfather of contemporary American cocktail culture takes the time to speak in person, even to promote his own signature brand of bitters within a larger theme of Italian aperitivo culture, you come to be christened by his tidbits of wisdom. Lynnette Marrero, BCB’s Head of Education, (and the co-founder of Speed Rack) was also watching from the sidelines, like a benevolent godmother.

“You’re the mover,” DeGroff said toward the end of his talk. He was punctuating a story about a conversation he’d had with one of his Rainbow Room bartenders, decades prior, about a product the bartender claimed wasn’t selling: “It’s not moving, man.” Pointing out into the crowd to deliver his point, however, you felt like DeGroff was speaking to all of us: “You’re the mover.”

That moment, for me, summarized the overall vibe of Bar Convent Brooklyn 2023. The ongoing professionalization of the beverage industry relies on bartenders, beverage directors, and retailers understanding that they are not only serving customers they are educating them. Shaping tastes, not following them. And Bar Convent Brooklyn is where they come to be educated. Over 4500 participants attended this year’s conference, gaining access to 55 education sessions and 198 exhibitors during the 2 days.

Reflections from Industry City

Outdoors at BCB photo credit Bar Convent Brooklyn

After DeGroff’s talk on the main stage, flanked by two smaller “Liquid Lounge” educational spaces set up specifically for tasting sessions, I made my way across the Industry City campus to the “Park Street University” educational stage at the other end of the conference, a journey that gives you a real appreciation for what the location adds to the equation. Full disclosure: I’ve never been to Tales of the Cocktail, or Bar Convent Berlin, for that matter, but it’s hard to imagine there is a venue better suited to a beverage industry conference than Brooklyn’s Industry City. Getting from one side of to the other means passing through the whole of the conference, woven into the trendy, urban geography of the repurposed warehouse buildings that make up Industry City in Brooklyn’s Sunset Park neighborhood.

Heering’s painting class

From one side to the other, you pass through Distiller’s Row, a courtyard within Industry City that houses such makers as Barrow’s Intense Ginger Liqueur, Fort Hamilton Distillery, and Big aLICe Brewery. You cross a bonafide cobblestone street, pass through several galleries set up with brand exhibitors, and finally a courtyard outfitted with a giant, red, step-and-repeat installation with the letters BCB. A photo op that, in the few times I passed by it, was usually free from selfie-takers. Even as someone who dabbles in influencer culture appreciation, I found that fact somehow heartening, reflecting on what it might mean. Industry people weren’t there just to show they were there. They were there to learn. Bartenders are perhaps a more humble breed lately; less concerned with the show than the craft. Or maybe there were just too many samples to taste in addition to other opportunities for self-expression, as some brands enticed attendees with their creativity. In contrast to yet another branded selfie spot, Heering Cherry Liqueur partnered with famed NYC street artist, Hektad, to kick off BCB with a "Sip & Spray" where the artist taught a class on how to paint his famous hearts seen around NYC. This was naturally accompanied by Heering Old Fashioneds, Manhattans, Junglebirds, and Copenhagens all crafted by Max de Smit.

Taste Makers Taking Tastes

Exhibitors at BCB photo credit Bar Convent Brooklyn

Spread out though at least 4 different gallery or courtyard spaces are the conference’s 198 exhibitors. This is arguably the reason most people attend, to have access to new flavors, ideas, and techniques. There are a few exhibitors featuring glassware, uniforms, or bar tools, but for the most part, exhibitors were pouring samples. So many samples. BCB’s organizers estimate that over 475,000 samples were poured during this year’s conference. That basically adds up to about 750ml of spirit per person. Even spread over the 16 total hours of the conference, it’s a lot to take in. Literally.

BCB Calvados session photo credit Pamela Vachon

Looking for a strategy for tasting that many samples? Honestly? I don’t have one. Even at ¼ ounce pours, it can add up quickly if one is determined to taste as much as possible. Water is on hand, for sure, and hydration is key. But mostly it was about picking and choosing. While not a buyer myself in any regard, I stuck to the things I didn’t know as well: Danish Whisky, strawberry liqueur, and Calvados, to name a few. (Okay I sort of already know Calvados, but they were pairing it with cheese, so…)

Bar Culture Is As Bar Culture Does

These weren’t solemn tasting experiences, as you can imagine, and many brands brought with them a very important element of the beverage industry experience: fun. Education and networking doesn’t just happen at BCB, but at the after-hours parties organized by various brands at some of NYC’s hottest bars. How many after-hours parties? One brand rep took it upon herself to catalogue on a shared Excel spreadsheet the over 75 occasions on offer once the conference closed for the day.

Pouring Fernet at BCB photo credit Pamela Vachon

In honor of the selection from this year’s Cabinet of Curiosities, Hendricks Gin was offering flower crowns, and a flower throne photo opp. (I was crowned Empress of Spring, but as the solstice has now passed, I can no longer demand the honorific.) Barr Hill brought a giant honeycomb with them, to better illustrate their flavor profile. A few brands offered cocktails. Did I mention the cheese pairing? Reps from Fernet-Branca were pouring directly into people’s mouths, much to the delight and predictable “whoop” of the crowd.

Enthusiastic outbursts happened a number of times during the Park Street University session I attended on “The Evolution of the Alcohol Industry and Why an Omnichannel Strategy is Imperative for Growth.” The session was only barely buffered from the tasting bustle happening just outside, but as is also predictable with people from the industry, nobody seemed distracted by it in the least, and the talk went on; another metaphor fitting metaphor for the beverage industry at large: we’re simultaneously the creators of the party, but also here to work.