8 Great Sicilian Wine Grapes You Should Know
Sicily may be smaller in size compared to mainland Italy, but in terms of winemaking impact and vineyard space, it’s pretty grandissimo. Sicily, in fact, is the largest winemaking region in all of Italy—larger than even Chianti powerhouse Tuscany—whose vineyard space amounts to more than the entire countries of Germany, New Zealand, or South Africa can boast. And yet Sicilian wine has a tendency to fly under the radar in the U.S. market compared to other Italian regions, dwarfed by appellations like Chianti, Barolo, and those that make Prosecco, whose wines are almost ubiquitous to the American imbibing public, and have been for decades.
Hills and vineyards in Sicily
Sicilian Wine Background
Sicily suffered from a quantity-over-quality reputation in the early part of the 1900s, but progressive winemakers looked to rectify that toward the latter part of the century. Since 2011 Sicilia has had an official DOC in Italy, and in 2012 a consortium of Sicilian winemakers—known as Sicilia DOC— was formed for the promotion and protection of wines of the DOC. In the past 10 years, Sicilian wines are starting to make their presence more known in the Western Hemisphere, due in part to the Consortium, and to the efforts of a younger brigade of Sicilian winemakers who are stretching the boundaries of classical winemaking, reshaping the personality of Sicilian wines, and looking to reach a younger, more experimental drinking audience. In a land where more than 75% of wineries are family-owned, the last 10 years has seen a generational shift in nearly 1 out of 5 of those wineries, with more to come in the not-too-distant future.
“Sicilian wine is seeing steady growth in terms of quality in recent years,” says Rosario Di Maria, CEO of Sicily’s largest wine cooperative, Cantine Ermes. “The work of many Sicilian wineries is to promote good practices in the vineyard and cellar in the direction of increasing sustainability. This has been especially understood by the young and very young winemakers, who are gradually taking over the reins of their predecessors' wineries.”
Sara Palma, Export Manager for Valle Dell’Acate notes that this new generation, “is keeping the roots in their origin, but eyes open to the future,” and further believes that “younger consumers are particularly interested in indigenous grapes and micro-terroir,” which Sicily offers in spades.
If you’ve ever tasted any wine from Sicily, you might have perceived a strong sense of either salinity or minerality, which is not surprising when much of the area’s vineyards are within spitting distance of either the sea or a volcano. While some Sicilian winemakers are utilizing international varietals like Riesling or Chardonnay to demonstrate what their vineyards are capable of, the real stars of Sicily are its indegnous grapes, which are vinified into a wide range of styles. Here are 8 important Sicilian grape varietals to keep on your radar for your next encounter with a bottle shop or wine list.
Nero D’Avola
If any Sicilian grape varietal has knowingly crossed your path in the last several years, it’s probably big, bold, Nero D’Avola. It doesn’t hurt that it’s relatively pronounceable as Italian grape varietals go, and it gives a hint to its character right in its name: nero. With an intensity of color bordering on black in the glass, Nero D’Avola is a red wine widely produced throughout Sicily, that can express itself as juicy as well as complex, offering savory notes like licorice or fennel, as well as the ability to age gracefully.
One to try: Valle Dell’Acate Il Moro Nero D’Avola
(Appropriately, “il moro” means “the darkness.”)
Nerello Mascalese
I formerly worked in a fine dining restaurant where a Nerello Mascalese was offered by the glass. It was a wine that definitely had to be sold to people, and was rarely cold-called, not so much because its character was so unusual or off-putting, but because people took one look at the number of syllables involved, and quickly fled to the next selection on the list. (It is often bottled under Etna Rosso, in conjunction with Nerello Cappuccio.) Which is a shame, if you ask me, because Nerello Mascalese is one of the most simultaneously approachable and interesting Sicilian varietals that you might come across. Grown near to Mount Etna, the volcanic soils create a pronounced minerality in a light-bodied red, with bright red fruits combining with earthy qualities, for a gorgeous wine akin to a smoky Pinot Noir. Also look for flinty rosé selections made from Nerello Mascalese.
One to try: Vento di Mare Nerello Mascalese
Another to try: Planeta Etna Rosso
Grillo
White grape Grillo is often the basis for Marsala wine, a fortified style of Sicilian wine that you may have previously seen on a restaurant menu, employed toward the making of the Italian-American dish, chicken marsala. But Grillo is capable of being front and center in its own right, and Sicily’s young winemakers are utilizing an abundance of approaches and aging techniques to highlight the versatility of this racy grape, whose flavors, on top of bright citrus, can include peppery, spicy, and herbal qualities.
One to try: Di Giovanna Vurria Grillo
Frappato
The changing American palate toward natural and funky wines has started to bring Frappato into popularity, whose natural character has a bit of a fruity, “grapey” funk to it. While it can be a little wild on the nose, Frappato’s body is delicate and mineral-forward and can be reminiscent of Beaujolais, with sweet red fruits and dark spices coming forward on the palate.
One to try: Donnafugata Bell’Assai Vittoria DOC Frappato
Carricante/Etna Bianco
Everything you need to know about why Sicilian winemaking is so exciting right now can be summed up by this simple fact: many winemakers are growing grapes on the extremely steep slopes of an active volcano. (As of this writing, in fact, Mount Etna is currently sporting an “eruption plume” and is “lava fountaining,” according to one report.) Despite the risk, Mount Etna’s climate is ideal for snappy whites: bright sun during the day, followed by cold breezes at night, producing dynamic wines with a resinous edge and vibrant citrus.
One to try: Planeta Etna Bianco
Catarratto
Despite being relatively unknown outside of Sicily, catarratto (not to be confused with carricante, below; yes, it’s a mouthful,) is Sicily’s workhorse white grape, accounting for about 60% of the region’s plantings, and thought to be a genetic descendant of Soave’s garganega grape. Catarratto generally produces light, uncomplicated white wines that are moderate in acidity, but which in the right hands can produce zesty, juicy, and even minty wines perfect for Sicily’s searing summer days.
One to try: Feudo Montoni Catarratto Masso
Insolia
Insolia, also spelled Inzolia in certain bottlings, is one of Sicily’s weightier whites, bringing forward floral aromas as well as an almost nutty palate. As such it is often used as a blending grape, including, as with all of the white grapes here, in Marsala wines. It is worth seeking out as a single or leading varietal, however, and can be elegant and structured, with its fruit, floral, and nutty notes providing balance and a little natural richness.
One to try: Cusumano Insolia
Perricone
A favorite among locals, perricone falls in the middle range of the Sicilian reds: bolder and spicier than frappato and Nerello Mascalese, but not as intense as Nero D’Avola. Deep purple in color with aromas of red fruit and Mediterranean herbs, it is an elegant selection that can pair cheeses and pastas, as well as heavier meat dishes.
One to try: Tenute Orestiadi Perricone
For further reading on Italian wine, see Discover Franciacorta, Italy’s Most Serious Sparkler, Chianti Classico and the New Top Quality Levels of Italian Wine, and Prosecco Rosé is a Thing.