6 Bold Modern Gins Made with California Citrus, Herbs & More
America’s West Coast conjures images of scrubby pines, magic mushrooms, soaring redwoods, surf and sand, and acres of sun-warmed produce. Many California distillers capture those evocative images as botanicals in modern style gins. Anchor Distilling, now part of The Hotaling & Co. Distillery, led the craft gin movement in 1996 with the introduction of Junipero Gin, the high proof, classic botanical gin from his copper pot stills, the first craft gin distilled in the US since Prohibition, while Lance Winters of St. George Spirits, the other OG, introduced the world to the flavors and aromas of the Bay Area terroir. Recently we looked at how gins like Gray Whale show the bold and briny influence of the Pacific Ocean.
Starting in LA and moving North up the Pacific coastline, we’ve rounded up a few excellent examples of gins made with California botanicals:
Star Keeper Gin
In downtown Los Angeles, the Spirit Guild ferments orange juice with champagne yeast to start their Star Keeper Gin, next they distill that citrus “wine” into brandy, then layer in native sage, pink peppercorn, and pistachio atop the classic botanical roster, doubling down with two varieties of juniper to keep things classic. Spirit Guild President Miller Duvall, who comes from a 6-generation farming family out of Bakersfield, says their unusual (and expensive) process creates a soft silkiness in texture, and a deeply nuanced taste. “The flavors in Star Keeper roll across the palate over a longer span of time,” showing big flavors and big aromas in a true-to -California-roots style.
Future Gin
Female and LGBTQ owned Future Gin brings sunny Southern Cali to the glass in their corn-based spirit, also produced by the Spirit Guild. Infused with Meyer lemon, grape leaves, avocado leaves (from co-founder and natural wine importer Amy Atwood’s backyard) and honeysuckle blossoms, the liquid comes off as delicate and citrus-y, without ignoring the juniper forward truth that classic gin lovers require. Co-founder Mary Bartlett came from years of beverage experience, and co-founders Natasha Case and Freya Esteller co-founded Coolhaus Ice Cream, all of which adds up to some tasty and spirited talent behind the scenes.
Amass Dry Gin Los Angeles
Amass Dry Gin Los Angeles, which honors the City of Angels right in the name, shows off its provenance with a text heavy front label listing the 29 found and foraged botanicals within. Fresh and dried California citrus peel, bay leaf, and hibiscus play with ashwaganda, long pepper, and reishi mushrooms in a corn-based elixir that demands to be enjoyed simply.
Wilder Gin
Heading North along the coast about halfway between LA and Santa Barbara, Ventura Spirits produces Wilder Gin, a botanical bomb packed with native mountain herbs like sagebrush and yerba santa said to evoke hillside hikes in the Southern California terroir.
Monterey Pine Gin
Further North in the East Bay, Richmond’s Dissident Spirits Co. makes Monterey Pine Gin that takes the focus from the traditional juniper into the Central Coast’s native evergreens. Aromatic but easy to drink, the approachable spirit works well mixed into cocktails where a woodsy, California-style herbaceous quality would be favored.
Bar Agricole Gin
Thad Vogler, owner of San Francisco’s recently reopened Bar Agricole, also recently launched a line of spirits in collaboration with several of his favorite producers. The brand new Bar Agricole Gin, formulated by Lance Winter’s team at St. George Spirits in Alameda, features botanicals like eucalyptus and citrus that evoke the Bay Area’s unique vegetation. The grape based distillate is also produced biodynamically–can it get any more California than that?
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