Spirited Reflections: What Whiskyfest Means To Me
Looking back on the biggest whisky (and whiskey) tasting of the year
Photos by Adam Levy
Now in its 22nd year in New York, Whiskyfest, for a whiskey freak like myself, is that date you circle on both the refrigerator and shared google calendar as soon as the date is announced. I have attended every Whiskyfest New York since Fall 2001. I still line up my collection of Whiskyfest pouring plasses with all the years I attended inscribed on them, 2001, 2002, 2003… and show them off with pride when I have whiskey friends over for a tasting.
Whiskyfest—when all of us were starting out in the whiskey world and now as part of the industry—is the opportunity to try different types of whiskies from distilleries we see on the shelves in local liquor stores and restaurants, but may never get to sample otherwise. Starting out in the early 2000s there was even something new called “Japanese Whisky”, with Lincoln Henderson, now of Woodford Reserve fame, as its Brand Ambassador for Suntory. You would see master distillers the likes of Parker Beam pouring his Heaven Hill portfolio (including the debut of Parker’s Heritage limited editions) and making the time to chat and explain the bourbon making process. Or you could experience the great presence of Booker Noe of Jim Beam reaching down below his table to pour something special for me and my father - distillers love when you go to Whiskyfest with your father! These days you can still maybe catch Jimmy Russell of Wild Turkey or Julian Van Winkle III (if you’re willing to wait on the line. Back in the day, before the whiskey bandits hit, there was no line for Pappy Van Winkle whiskey).
It was where I observed and learned the difference between a brand ambassador and what a great brand ambassador can be by watching the Simon Brookings, Ewan Gunns and David Blackmores of the world in action. It’s meaningful to see their passion and love for whiskey, and the distilleries they represent. The seminars they and others present are an opportunity to really delve into the whiskey experience, and taste special casks along with the rest of their range. One year I attended with good friend and Peter Silver (and Malt Maniac ), and we were invited to an Old Pulteney luncheon and learned the story of the distillery and the town of Wick. Today it’s great to see ambassador Steph Ridgeway taking up that mantle with those who come to her table and taste their portfolio.
When I first started to attend it was a more intimate setting in that ballroom in Time Square—the whiskey boom had not really started yet. You would begin to recognize the faces of various regular attendees over the years, as well as those who were on on founder John Hansell’s email list to attend his private tastings in New York at d.b.a. in the East Village. If you showed passion and respect, you would get the nod, and be invited to after parties at the Brandy Library downtown or at St. Andrews (RIP) or wherever the next after hours tasting was being held.
Attending Ewan Morgan Diageo seminar with Game of Thrones #gameofthrones collection in 2018
Whiskyfest was the start of my education into the whisky world. For instance, it was my first introduction to the concept of an independent bottler like Gordon & MacPhail, Signatory, Samaroli, and the beginning of Single Cask Nation—when I learned about taking casks of single malt and other types of whisky, and maybe finishing it in a rum cask or fortified wine cask, or just picking a great cask for its own sake to taste. It’s also a way to taste some whiskies on their own that typically go into blends like Chivas, Johnnie Walker or Dewar’s. It was the launchpad for many new types of whiskies and from places I never even knew made whiskey—like Smooth Ambler in West Virginia or Balcones in Waco Texas—plus witnessing the rise of Irish whiskey and Canadian whisky over the years.
Today the whiskey world continues to grow exponentially all over the world. On the floor of Whiskyfest there are fewer master distillers behind the tables now, as more whiskey shows around the world continue to pop up. Though if you want an opportunity to taste a familiar or not-so portfolio, hopefully speak to a knowledgeable person about whiskey production, attend a seminar to learn more about your favorite distillery, well then circle the date on your calendar. You will see me on December 3rd with a 2019 Tasting Glass in my hand. In it there will be some brown liquid that hopefully came from a special under-the-table bottle. I’ll have a smile on my face because Whiskyfest has come to town!